First River Cruise Line in Colombia

The landscape was completely unspoiled by any sign of the modern world. Sitting in a comfortable chair in our tastefully decorated stateroom, viewing the passing banks of the Magdalena River was a peaceful experience. An occasional rudimentary structure surrounded by a few cattle and some pigs was the only sign of human presence along much of the river. Wildlife of a wide variety of birds in huge numbers was supplemented by the occasional cayman and dugout canoes with fishermen. The river, originating in the Andes mountains, flows for almost one thousand miles, emptying into the Caribbean Sea at the city of Barranquilla.

For now, AmaWaterways is the only river cruise line offering the weeklong itinerary between Barranquilla and Cartagena on the Magdalena River in combination with just over seventy miles on the man-made Canal del Dique. The Ama Magdalena and the Ama Melodia are two ships that were built in Colombia just for this purpose. The last passenger boat plying these waters was a Mississippi sternwheeler steamer, David Arango, carrying up to 120 passengers and cargo.

The ship was made famous by the writer Gabriel García Márquez in his story about the final journey of Simón Bolívar in 1830. Bolivar successfully fought for independence from Spain in South America and formed the Republic of Gran Colombia, encompassing Venezuela, Panama, Bolivia, and Peru. After a fire in 1961 destroyed the ship, there has not been any multi-day passenger traffic for over 60 years.

Rudi Schreiner, a pioneer in river cruising, added one more crown to his already distinguished career before relinquishing his title as CEO at AmaWaterways last year. He formed the company back in 2002 together with long-time partner, East Germany-born, Kristin Karst, as well as another tourism explorer, Jimmy Murphy. However, Rudi continues to be involved as Chairman of the Board. Rudi and I both began as tour guides in Europe many years ago, and after initially organizing student tours for Americans, Rudi joined Love Holidays, now Uniworld River Cruises. He introduced a riverboat in Russia, cruising between Moscow and St Petersburg. The four-deck boat was built in former East Germany with economy in mind, and I was on the first departure with a group of Americans. Most of the staff on board had little or no experience with river cruising. Some had never even seen water before being hired. The hiring seemed to have been based on knowledge of the English language, and consequently, most of the very young crew were former teachers. Cabins were extremely small and basic with showers over the toilet and two narrow couches that converted to bunk beds at night. Entertainment was limited, but for those of us who appreciate classical music, it was fabulous. Every night we stayed up way past our bedtime listening to a talented Russian concert pianist playing classical music on a grand piano.

Rudi moved on with Uniworld and a stint with Viking River Cruises before forming his own company, “Amadeus Waterways.” Rudi and his staff continued to introduce new ideas to the river cruise market. In 2006, the Ama Diago was the first to offer complimentary bicycles and in 2008, the line was rebranded “AmaWaterways.” Over the years, signature twin balconies were introduced and the line managed to become a well-respected river cruise company in the luxury market. In 2009, the company expanded with river cruises in Vietnam and Cambodia. They were not the first, as that was a Scottish firm called Pandaw Cruises. But the Ama Marguerite was luxurious compared to Pandaw ships. Cabins were more comfortable and beautifully decorated with balconies and internal air-conditioned walkways between rooms and public areas. Later, the line introduced a specially built luxury ship, the Ama Pura, offering phenomenal cruises on the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar as well. Sadly, due to the political situation in former Burma, those cruises have been suspended.

Searching for new destinations some ten years ago, Rudi and his team set their eye on a very unlikely country, Colombia. The top-producing cocaine country in the world seemed an unlikely choice, but years of negotiating and close cooperation with the government and related companies in the country have finally produced an exciting experience. The two ships, Ama Magdalena and Ama Melodia, were constructed in Colombia with specifications mandated by AmaWaterways. After a temporary close down during Covid and new elections in the country, the inauguration finally took place seven years later.

In April 2025, AmaWaterways began operating the cruises. In the meantime, Colombia, under its present government and President Gustavo Petro, the country has done a remarkable job. During our ten-day visit here, we only saw positive signs for the country; the people were extremely friendly and welcoming to Americans.

After staying in the bustling city of Barranquilla for two nights, we took a cab to our riverboat outside town in a somewhat private and remote area. I assume that location was designated for added security. If one is used to the beautifully streamlined river boats plying the waterways of Europe, the first impression of the exterior of Ama Magdalena is certainly a disappointment. The design seems bulky and rather drab. It simply didn’t look like a new ship. We dropped our luggage off with porters outside and were told to come back later when the rooms were ready.

We took a Tuk Tuk – an open-air rickshaw - for a short ride to a local beach and sat down at one of the open-sided thatched-roof restaurants at the water’s edge. The area was filled with beachgoers, and we were the only non-locals. The grilled fish was fresh, and we were entertained by the antics of young children playing in the sand around tables of large families.

Boarding our riverboat was an easy process. The very friendly all-Colombian crew welcomed us warmly. First seeing the outside of the ship, it was a very pleasant surprise to step inside our home-away-from-home. It was not only beautiful but efficiently designed. Wide circular marble stairs in the middle of the ship connected the three decks and inside corridors to all rooms. This concept of avoiding walking outside in the hot climate was initiated by AmaWaterways as one of the first river cruise lines in Asia to design their ships this way. The main restaurant is on deck two. The tables are arranged in such a way that they are cozy with crisp white linens. The light gray décor and large windows further enhanced this atmosphere. At every lunch and dinner, there is a display of the different menu choices at the entry of the restaurant. Appetizers and a bounty of salads and exotic fruits are self-service at a buffet, and the main course is ordered from the waiter. Wine is included with lunch and dinner, mostly South American labels. There are no other wines available, even for purchase. Overall, the food might not always cater to every taste, but presentation and service were outstanding. During breakfast hours, there was a chef creating wonderful egg dishes.

On the third floor there is a large lounge that can accommodate all passengers on board as well as a bar offering free cocktails before dinner. The two barmen were outstanding. It was in this lounge that fun and lively folklore entertainment was performed most evenings after dinner. The entire lounge is surrounded by large windows. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors open to a covered open area used for special meals or events.

Beyond here is a raised pool, large by river boat standards, chaise lounges, comfortable chairs, and sun parasols. Potted plants, strategically placed, add to the relaxing atmosphere. The sixteen suites on all three floors are the same, except for a few slightly larger suites at the front of the ship on each floor. Cabins range from 237 to 306 square feet. All feature a small balcony as well as a French balcony. Bathrooms are equipped with glass showers and two sinks. Bedding was crisp and comfortable. The ship has a well-versed fitness instructor and massage therapist on board offering wellness programs.

Sailing along the Magdalena River was a very rewarding experience and AmaWaterways offers interesting tours along the way. Brand-new luxury Mercedes Sprinter vans and small new boats with 150 HP motors are used for transport and excursions. The company has spent a lot of time investing in infrastructure along the river, building docking space, hiring local people and teaching them how to showcase their heritage and culture to visitors. Ama also supports local schools and trades. According to former CEO Rudi Schreiner, he expects roughly 50 ships to operate on the river within the next 10 to 15 years! The potential is enormous, and rivers in Europe are clogged with riverboats. If the political climate in Colombia continues to improve as it has done with leaps and bounds over the last years under President Gustavo Petro, the future is there.

But today there are still the old colonial towns and villages to visit, like Mompox and Palenque, the first “free town” in the Americas, built by former enslaved people in 1713. You can still walk in villages with only dirt roads and no running water. The villagers there seem happier than so many people here who have so much more. They so much enjoy interacting despite the language barrier. It was an enlightening experience.

Join me for my next Coastal Breeze News Travel News column on May 7 with more about this fascinating country.