Standing aft – rear of the ship - on deck fifteen of the Celebrity Eclipse at the extremely popular Sunset Bar with a drink in hand and exiting Ft. Lauderdale harbor is a heady experience. The propellers whipped up frothy white water mixed with the blue and grey from the Atlantic. A bar waiter stood next to us, also gazing at the disappearing city. “I never get tired of this,” he stated with a bright smile, and “I hope you enjoy it just as much.” Like on any of the other ships in the fleet we have sailed on, crew members on board seemed personable and genuinely dedicated to making their passengers feel special. We first experienced the personal friendly service many years ago on Chandris Lines’ S.S. Britanis and Galileo, later called Meridian, which became the first cruise ship under the new name and owners Celebrity. I remember the second time we stepped on board the first ship a year later, when our boys were recognized and welcomed heartily by the restaurant staff. A few years ago, we reconnected with Celebrity on the Silhouette, the Ascent, and Apex and found that the crew on board were as accommodating and personable as we had previously experienced.
In April, we cruised transatlantic once again. This time aboard in their Solstice class, on the Eclipse, an older sister of the Silhouette.
The itinerary included sea days from Ft. Lauderdale to Amsterdam, with stops in the Portuguese island of Madeira, Porto in Portugal, La Coruna in Spain, and Dover in the United Kingdom.
We had been advised that an entry document for the Dover stop in the United Kingdom was required, even for people not leaving the ship. It is a new digital entry document that can easily be obtained online and does not require paperwork nor proof. Once the 20 English pounds have been paid and basic questions have been answered, approval comes almost immediately in most cases. We already experienced this a year earlier with an exceptionally smooth entry into the country. Since the validity is two years, we were all set for this cruise.
Our Celebrity check-in in Ft. Lauderdale last December for a cruise on the newer Ascent to the Southern Caribbean was smooth and fast, so we expected the same. But this time the lines were long, confusing and some of the port staff in the terminal were downright rude. The cause for this confusion was that Celebrity Cruises had failed to advise passengers they needed to show proof of their accepted UKETA on their phone or on paper. The British government does not require that for their system, but Celebrity has its own rules. When rudely delegated to the back of the line because we couldn’t find it on our phone fast enough, we discovered the UKETA does have a function on the app allowing you to see when your entry is valid until, and a simple screenshot can alleviate the Celebrity problem.
Fortunately, the friendly welcome by crew on board made passengers immediately relax and anxious to begin their cruise. As far as I know, Celebrity and Virgin Voyages are the only major cruise lines that allow passengers to get immediate access to their staterooms to drop off the carry-ons even before the room is fully prepared for the new guests. It is a nice perk not to have to struggle with your carry-on while waiting to get in your cabin. Captain Evmorfios Passalis was, according to rumor, a last-minute replacement as the scheduled captain did not have proper papers to enter the USA. He did not have the charisma we had experienced from Captain Tasos Kafetzis on the Celebrity Ascent in the Caribbean last December, nor the extremely likable and friendly approach of Captain Nikolas Christodoulakis on the Apex. However, he was very pleasant and interacted with passengers and crew in the public areas. Celebrity is also well-known for its rapid advancement and opportunities for women. In 2015, the company made history by appointing Kate McCue as the first American female captain of Celebrity Summit. She became known for her leadership, innovations, and very visible appearance on social media.
Our first stop, after nine days at sea, was the Portuguese island of Madeira, where our captain left the ship for another assignment and was replaced by Irish Captain Nigel Smyth, whom we had met previously on Celebrity Silhouette. He is very personable and readily available to chat with and answer questions. The Eclipse is a very comfortable, smooth sailing ship and is the third in the line of Solstice Class at Celebrity Cruises. In today’s size of cruise ships with a capacity of 2,850 passengers, it is considered midsize. She was built by Meyer Werft near the Dutch border in Germany.
She was inaugurated in 2010, and in May last year, a solarium for VIP guests was added on deck 16 and a special lounge for the upper-level “Retreat” guests was added, where the ship previously had a cardroom, video arcade, and an internet café. At the same time, carpeting in general areas and furniture was refreshed. Regretfully, that did not show on our cruise and the general areas looked tired. From the dockside, the ship looked fresh and well-maintained, but on the inside, there were some rusty areas, and that included our balcony. The fourteen passenger decks feature plenty of entertainment centralized by the mid-ship Grand Foyer. In the middle is an enormous live potted tree illuminated by a sphere. Eight glass elevators add to the great atmosphere here. Unfortunately for walkers and sun worshippers, most days were very rainy, so we had little experience on the outside decks except for a delicious hamburger at the Mast Grill overlooking the pool area on one sunny day. However, the inside solarium and pool were a savior for many guests. And without exception, every crew member we encountered made an obvious effort to provide outstanding service to compensate for the dreary weather. Overall, entertainment and shows were quite good.
The island of Madeira is lushly green, highlighted by a profusion of brilliant foliage, most especially the vibrant purple jacaranda trees. We were fortunate enough to be there during their annual flower parade. Rain could not stop the enthusiasm of locals and visitors alike. My wife and I walked throughout the harbor city of Funchal and reminisced about the time many years ago when we came here at the beginning of our relationship.
After another day at sea, we arrived outside the city of Porto on the mouth of the Douro River in mainland Portugal. Porto, a UNESCO World Heritage city, boasts a rich history dating all the way back to the second century BC. It was first an important settlement and in 1139 served as the capital of the country. There are several viewpoints to enjoy the majestic panorama of the medieval walls. And many impressive 18th and 19th century structures still allow admittance. The narrow labyrinths of steep cobblestone streets and alleys of the old city offer an immersion in history.
All of this is towered over by the Porto Cathedral at the highest point of the city. Its core and fortress-like Romanesque structure dates back to the 12th and 13th centuries. And through the middle of it all, the Douro River is ever-present, bustling with boat traffic restricted to the city and surrounding areas. Despite being overflowing with tourists, Porto deserves its UNESCO World Heritage recognition and is a city to return to. After another day at sea, we docked in La Coruna, Spain. And if I say, “docked in La Coruna,” I mean literally footsteps away from the beautiful main square of Praze de Maria Pita and the Town Hall. These 19th-century buildings were surrounded by a wall of about a mile and a half. But today, only short sections remain as space was cleared for city expansion. La Coruna harbor now has its Paseo Maritimo here, a gorgeous seafront promenade that stretches for eight miles around the city. But most memorable of our too short visit to La Coruna was the small café my wife discovered just off the Praze de Maria Pita. We thought it was too early for lunch as the Spanish are well known for their late meals.
However, on the corner of a narrow street just off the square, local workers from carpenters to banking employees entered Bar Malpica. Out of curiosity, we went in. Inside, it was much larger than expected but every table except one was occupied. We were given the daily three-course daily lunch menu with three or four choices plus half a bottle of wine per person included. We asked the waiter for half red and half white. He promptly opened two whole bottles. When I mentioned it, he said, “Oh, just drink half of it!” Total for our delicious meal for two, including wine and coffee, was Euro 28. About $32!
After one more day at sea, the famous White Cliffs of Dover, England, appeared like a mirage in the early morning sunrise. On top of the imposing white rock, the enormous medieval fortress is the largest by land mass in Great Britain. During the final days before D-Day, endless tunnels in the rock formation were hiding military equipment and the striking cliffs also beckoned a sentimental “welcome home” for the troops returning from the European mainland.
Our last night on board the Eclipse was a wonderful theater evening, and staff were saying their goodbyes to the many clients who had traveled with the same waiters and stewards multiple times. The entry into the Netherlands via the thirteen-mile North Sea Canal is a truly mesmerizing experience as the ship slowly glides through the world’s largest sea locks.
At one point, ships cruise over and above busy motorways in the true style of the famous Dutch engineering of the waterways. The Eclipse docked right in the middle of Amsterdam, allowing people to walk off into the heart of the city. A perfect farewell!
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