Antigua, Guatemala

The old Spanish colonial city of Antigua in Guatemala is surrounded by rich volcanic soil from four volcanoes. Guatemala is well known for outstanding coffee and exports 2.5% of the world’s coffee from nine different sections of the country. Antigua has become one of the most well-known coffee production areas located in the south-central area of the country where there is low humidity, plenty of sunshine and cool evening temperatures. Most plantations enjoy breathtaking scenery from their locations on the steep slopes of the mountains.

But Antigua is also the former seat of the Spanish Empire and later became the capital of the modern Republic of Guatemala formed in 1821. Historic buildings are everywhere in the easily walkable small center of the city, but good sturdy shoes are a must to navigate the streets built exclusively with cobblestones. In 1542 the city was founded and in 1749 Spanish architect, Juan de Dios Estrada, began the creation of the capital of the new Kingdom of Guatemala under the Spanish Empire with the Church de La Merced.

This church and many others in the city were destroyed by earthquakes in 1773 and in 1976. La Merced was twice rebuilt in its original grand splendor and now offers visitors a fascinating combination of Baroque and Moorish styles prevalent in Spain at the time. The Antigua Cathedral was originally built in 1541 and rebuilt several times. Today only the impressive front is still standing. Once one walks through this façade it is a shock to see only ruins without a roof. Casa Santo Domingo, a five-star hotel and museum that was originally a monastery and convent is a stunning property with beautifully spacious rooms, however unfortunately the gorgeous grounds are open to tourists and the events department does a stellar job of keeping the public areas active with weddings, conventions, and private parties. Consequently, for a hotel guest there is not much serenity to be found in this gorgeous historical venue. The San Francisco Church is the oldest fully functional house of worship in the city. And the Santa Catalina Arch, one of the most visited and photographed historic constructions dating back to just before 1700 allowed the nuns, who had made a vow of seclusion, to walk across from one convent to the other without having contact with people on the street. 

The above is a lot to take in from this great city of Guatemala that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But there are also many opportunities to relax and people watch at a plethora of fabulous coffee cafes spread throughout the city. I am not a typical coffee drinker needing a jolt at Starbucks on a regular basis, but here I have become addicted to several cups a day. Guatemalan chocolate and different forms of cacao available at many shops are another specialty. Packs of coffee for sale are available everywhere, but regrettably freshness is questionable in quite a few tourist shops, and I have learned that unless you have assistance from a local who knows what to buy, you are probably better off buying your Guatemalan coffee at “Wake Up Marco,” a small and well-known coffee shop on Marco Island.

Antigua also offers many outstanding restaurants. A combined bookshop/cafe serves outstanding sandwiches, soups, and salads at old heavy stone tables on cozy open inner courts surrounded by plants, small fountains, and birds. Café Condesa is hidden right off the main square. And if one craves a mouthwatering “steak, frites” dinner, “Le Bistro Cinq” is your place, a couple of blocks off the plaza. The city also has many of the American fast-food restaurants. However, you wouldn’t realize it as they are disguised behind old colonial or Mayan facades; no “Golden Arches” on these cobblestone streets. In fact, the most popular fast food is Guatemalan fried chicken, Pollo Campero, where the line of people waiting to get in winds around the block.

About 45% of Guatemalans are Indigenous and produce multicolored textiles, handicrafts, paintings, and artisan products made by the traditional methods. The first and last impression of Guatemala most visitors get is the fascinating array of a rainbow of colors everywhere in the country and Antigua is no different as many shops offer to fill your suitcase with fabulous reminders of your stay. Additionally, at any street corner and in the central plaza there are roving street vendors, dressed in their brightly colored traditional costumes, many of them balancing their wares on their heads. They come in daily from the surrounding countryside, on old American school buses used for public transportation in Guatemala, to hawk everything from freshly sliced fruit to cheap jewelry and flashy toilet roll holders. Let me hasten to add that in general everyone is friendly and if you make clear you are not interested, you will seldom be hassled.

I would be amiss not to mention some of the 37 volcanoes dominating the Guatemalan landscape. Volcan Agua, with a practically perfect conical mass, is six miles south of Antigua and rises to 12,345 feet. Volcan Acatenango, consisting of two peaks, and Volcan Fuego are 20 miles from the city and are connected by a high ridge. The last eruption was in 2018. Most popular is Volcan Pacaya at 8,370 feet as it is easiest to hike and offers an almost continuous display of smoke. This area is also considered unstable, and a minor eruption took place last year around this time, but afternoon and overnight tours are available to adventure hikers. Towards the summit are audible rumbles, in addition to the haze of smoke. Some of the rocks can be too hot to touch. It is highly recommended to only attempt the hike with small groups of people and an experienced guide booked through your hotel or local agency.

We have stayed at several hotels in Antigua including the Westin, a lovely property but too far away from the center. The famous Casa Santo Domingo is much better located, but as explained earlier, it is way too busy. Three years ago, we found a hotel with only seven rooms right in the center of the city, but quiet at the same time. All rooms in the Hotel San Rafael are different, each one with its own charm. All have individual fireplaces and large bathrooms with skylights and rain showers. Most are surrounding a wonderful inner court with fountains and a wide variety of trees, shrubs, plants, and colorful flowers immaculately groomed and maintained. There is no restaurant, as there are so many choices nearby, but in the mornings a sumptuous and beautifully presented breakfast is served at individual tables in the inner court, and during the day and evening, sandwiches can be ordered.

Nothing is too much for the staff from receptionist, Thelma, to every staff member we met. In the evening, the staff is more than happy to light a fire in your fireplace.

Antigua has always been a bustling tourist destination most especially for Europeans and Americans, but at this last visit at least 95% were Guatemalan. Due to Covid warnings and restrictions there were hardly any Americans or Europeans. Our government advised against travel here for anything but essential travel. As we were very familiar with the country we decided to go anyway and never regretted it. Guatemalans on vacation were having a great time despite Covid restrictions adhered to by everyone without any complaint or resistance.

It was impressive to see that practically every shop, restaurant, market, and hotel in Antigua had a portable thermometer stand and a step through disinfectant mat at the entrance. Everyone was masked and an early evening lockdown did not stop Guatemalans of all ages from singing and dancing in the main square of Antigua until it was time to leave.

It was very pleasant not to be beaten down by Covid on this trip and the optimism of the Guatemalans during these difficult times was positively infectious.

Ewout Rijk de Vries and his wife, Jill, brought America Travel Arrangements to Marco Island almost 40 years ago. They specialize on high end small adventure tours and small safari groups for clientele all over the world, but also are experts on high end cruises with the help of longtime assistant and friend, Michelle Wegman. In combination with his writing and photography, Ewout has visited over 90 countries. Ewout can be reached at ewout@photodevries.com.