Entering Stockholm Onboard Ultra-Deluxe Silver Moon

We departed from the dock in the center of the beautiful Finnish capital, Helsinki, in the early evening cruising towards Sweden. At five in the morning, as the sun was rising, we marveled at the bucolic setting of the numerous small islands from the privacy of our balcony on our ship, the Silver Moon, as it carefully navigated its way to the Swedish capital of Stockholm. There are 8,000 islands along the two-thousand-mile coastline. Because of the structure of combined work and leisure in their country, the Swedish people have an opportunity to take time off work much more seriously than Americans and many have a second home or cottage on one of these tiny islands and lots of time to enjoy it. Some islands are accessible by ferry, but most are only reachable by private boats.

This was one of the last days of a week-long cruise in Northern Europe at the end of the summer. Normally, the highlight of the cruises in the Baltic Sea is the dazzling city of St. Petersburg in Russia, but due to the present political situation in the world and the closure of this magnificent destination to western countries, close to 300 scheduled cruise departures had to be altered or canceled during last summer and fall. The Silver Moon, one of the ultra-luxury cruise line Silversea’s newest ships, was one of those. Due to the altered itinerary, they offered a reduced rate that we took advantage of to experience their service and the new itinerary.

Way back in 1994, we were on the inaugural sailing of the Silver Cloud in the Norwegian Fjords. It was the first ship of a new luxury cruise line named Silversea and one of the most magnificent and memorable cruises I have ever experienced. Since that time, the cruise line has expanded to eleven ships with two more new ones slated to debut next year and in 2024. After a total refurbishment in 2017, that first ship still sails today as one of the company’s exclusive expedition ships visiting Antarctica during our winter months with a maximum of only 254 passengers and 209 crew members. Over the years we have experienced some of the ups and downs of the cruise line. Today the company is under the Royal Caribbean umbrella, and I can honestly say that our experience on the Silver Moon was without a doubt the finest quality of luxury cruising in the present competitive market. 

The inauguration of the ship that was built in 2020 was delayed by Covid, but it has been in full operation as the first ultra-deluxe cruise ship to set sail “after Covid,” with the official christening in Athens, Greece by its Godmother Gaia Gaja of the well-known Gaia Vineyards on the famous island of Santorini in Greece.

The ship is much larger than the Silver Cloud and other Silversea ships I have sailed on. Its capacity is double that of the Cloud with a maximum of 596 passengers. But one would never notice that this is now the largest ship in the fleet, as the passenger to crew ratio is remarkable with 411 crew fully taking care of every whim of its passengers. You want complimentary chilled caviar and ice-cold vodka in your suite at 3:00 AM? I personally did not go that far but was told it was entirely possible. Aside from the butlers – and yes, they are dressed in formal butler uniforms – there is always someone offering assistance. Even deckhands stop for a smile and a “Good morning.” Gratuities and virtually everything else is included in the cruise fare, from a selection of excursions to an outstanding wine list and a wide selection of inventive cocktails. I counted twelve different rums displayed behind the classic granite bar aptly named “Dolce Vita.” 

There is ample selection for dining opportunities on this ship with a choice of nine different venues. “Atlantide” is the main restaurant. Dine any time and reservations were never needed. “Kaiseki” is a Japanese restaurant, “the Pool Grill” is for casual lunch and dinner, “La Terrazza” specializes in Italian food, but the waitstaff will get anything else for anyone in the party preferring not to eat Italian. “Spaccanapoli” is the place for pizza and the “Silver Note” is a gourmet jazz club serving small bites and an opportunity to dance to the jazz music. The Silversea S.A.L.T Kitchen is a new restaurant and bar concept. It stands for “Sea and Land Taste” and invites guests to delve deeper into each region’s cuisine and culture with regionally inspired dishes, drinks, and demonstrations. The only restaurant that offers specialty dining at an upcharge of $60 per person is “La Dame,” a member of the famous French “Relais & Chateaux” chain. And lastly, hidden away at the stern on deck eight and one of my favorites in the early morning is the “Arts Café” serving continental breakfast, as well as custom made sandwiches and snacks during the day. Quite a few times it was here I took advantage of the complimentary specialty coffees available at any bar or restaurant on board. 

Last January, one of our favorite cruise lines, Crystal Cruises, was forced into bankruptcy during Covid times. The company had just finished building the world’s most expensive and luxurious ice-enforced expedition ship scheduled to sail the Antarctic. The ice class expedition yacht had been built in Germany for approximately $385 million with the latest special equipment and a much-coveted polar class rating.

In July of this year a “bargain” bid of $275 million by the Royal Caribbean group, owners of Silversea Cruises, was accepted and this winter the re-named Silversea Endeavor will offer Antarctic cruises. Around 200 people will enjoy 304 square foot staterooms, all outside suites and there are two owner’s suites offering 1,290 square feet.

The Crystal Cruises design included two helicopters and a small submarine. But Silversea will not operate these “toys,” as they could not be made available to all passengers on board and instead have converted hanger space into a few more staterooms. Most of the original Crystal crew will be maintained by Silversea with an expected ratio of one crew member per passenger.

This new acquisition for the Royal Caribbean Group comes at a time the company already had plans to extend their ultra-deluxe market share of cruising and we hope that the outstanding service we were so fortunate to experience on the Silver Moon can be maintained as Silversea keeps growing.

Normally I prefer self-discovery and adventure travel, but I must admit that leaving our cruise in the Swedish capital was sad when crew members said goodbye to us as if we had become personal friends during the short time together. Before returning to the United States, we thoroughly enjoyed two days sightseeing in Stockholm bringing back memories from my childhood when I lived there for two years. As an 11-year-old I rode the city subway a whole day for free on the first day after opening to the public here. Looking at the Grand Hotel from a sightseeing boat I fondly remembered eating apple pie there with my father on special occasions. Good timing allowed us the opportunity to witness the changing of the Royal Palace guards. A performance that appeared somewhat comically disorganized, yet endearingly engaging. We enjoyed “al fresco” lunch in the Old City of Gamla Stan, took the ferry over to the Abba Museum and strolled aimlessly along the water’s edge and marveled at city hall. This is one of the most prominent buildings in the country with its “lantern-look-alike” dome constructed in the National Romantic style by Swedish architect Ragnar Östberg between 1911 and 1923. 

Dinner with friends at the local low key Boulebar restaurant on the water near our hotel was a befitting end to another wonderful travel experience.

Ewout Rijk de Vries and his wife, Jill, brought America Travel Arrangements to Marco Island almost 40 years ago. They specialize on high end small adventure tours and small safari groups for clientele all over the world, but also are experts on high end cruises with the help of longtime assistant and friend, Michelle Wegman. In combination with his writing and photography, Ewout has visited close to 100 countries. Please direct your comments or questions to ewout@photodevries.com as he likes to hear from readers.