When Did Romance = Diamonds?

The concept of diamonds representing a symbol of love wasn’t just a marketing scheme invented in the mid-twentieth century. The discovery and use of diamonds goes back thousands of centuries, as early as 500 B.C. The earliest ring was found in a grave site a few miles south of Rome from approximately 160 A.D. In it was a teenage girl that someone found it important for her to take the ring with her and wear in the afterlife. Was it an act of love or for protection? The Greek name for diamond is “adamas,” which translated means invincible because of its hardness.

In Roman times diamonds were coveted and an expensive commodity symbolizing wealth and power. I may have mentioned in the past an enslaved person caught with a simple gold ring could face severe punishment and even execution - imagine being found with even one diamond piece on their person. 

There are documented pieces of jewelry set with diamonds that date back to 300 B.C. found in what today is Afghanistan. One of the earliest diamond rings on display was found in what is now Syria, dating from 300 A.D. It is nearly seven carats, slightly brown in color in its natural crystal state, in a beautifully hand-crafted ring mounting. It is the largest diamond surviving from the ancient world!

The advent of learning to cut and polish a rough crystal occurred in the latter medieval years, improving its shape and brilliance and making the gem much more appealing and popular with the different classes. In the 1200s, goldsmiths were putting diamonds in all kinds of jewelry. By the 1400s, you would find rings engraved with inscriptions professing love and devotion.

 An early example of a romantic or wedding ring was in the 1417 will of Joanna Fastolf, a ruby and diamond ring listed as a “marrying ring,” which evolved into the now popular engagement ring and was inscribed in French…“Love you with all my heart.” 

Another fact of romantic diamond history was the diamond marrying ring that emperor Maximillian of Austria presented to Mary of Burgundy in 1477 to seal their marriage; he placed it on the third finger of her left hand the ancients claimed to connect directly to the heart by the “vein of love.” This ring is said to be the first diamond engagement ring.

By 1725, diamond rings or marrying rings were pretty much the norm. It was not unusual for a woman to present a man with a diamond, but normally, it was the other way around, as it is today. There is documentation in France that many weddings were delayed or postponed because the groom-to-be could not afford a diamond ring for his bride-to-be. (Maybe this is where saving up at least three months' salary to buy a diamond originated?)

I have not only sold thousands of diamond engagement rings during my career but also restored many antique heirloom diamond engagement rings as early as the 1700s and 1800s.

I had the esteemed pleasure to fully restore at my workshop an antique three-stone diamond ring that belonged to the wife of none other than Union Army General William T. Sherman that he presented to his wife in 1850.

Both here in the U.S. and abroad, the practice of presenting an engagement ring was especially popular during the Civil War and Victorian age (1860- 1899).

Fast forward to the 1930s; the U.S. is slowly clawing out of the worst depression in its history. In 1938, De Beers, the largest diamond conglomerate in the world, hired an advertising agency, and the slogan “a diamond is forever” was born and the outrageous suggestion the gentleman save two months’ pay to purchase the perfect engagement ring for his bride-to-be. Did it work? Well, slowly at first, then three years later, WWII broke out, that being a negative contributing factor until after the war’s conclusion; by the middle to late 1940s, diamond engagement rings were jewelry stores leading selling item, and apparently, the practice is now permanently carved in stone. 

Today, the suggestion by De Beers is a person should save three hard-earned months’ pay to purchase that dream diamond ring; currently, 80% of all American brides get “a rock” on their finger. 

To my amazement, the average engagement ring here in the U.S. is one carat in size, and the average amount spent is five thousand dollars (Yes! $5,000). So, the experts are telling me a dude making 80K a year is spending $20,000 on her engagement ring? Maybe in a fantasy world - what are these experts smoking? Last time I checked that statistics, the average diamond was a quarter of a carat and about one thousand dollars for the whole ring. I’m sure the national average is up some, but not anywhere near the wishful thinking of 20K they are talking about - at least not where I’m sitting.

The most popular diamond cut presently is the cushion cut and the elongated radiant cut. I have had many requests for ovals lately, and without question, the round brilliant cut is always a staple that never goes out of style. To me the round is the way to go to get the best bang for your buck! A one carat princess cut tends to look smaller compared to a round brilliant cut of the exact same weight due to the heavier bottom of the princess stone (Don’t forget a diamond's size is by its weight on the scale). The least popular, in many jewelers’ opinion would be the heart shape; a bit corny and expensive in its heyday, and the marquis cuts are in demand only occasionally.

I am putting together most engagement rings in platinum and 18kt. or 14kt. white gold, the demand for yellow gold is rising steadily. The halo design where the center is surrounded by small diamonds is still in demand, but lately, a simple four or six-prong tiffany solitaire in any white metal has had a re-birth. I forgot to mention the classic three-stone diamond ring is so popular here on the island, and that includes the three stone with a colored center, such as ruby, emerald, tanzanite, tourmaline, sapphire, or my most popular aquamarine.

I remember years ago, a young man lamenting on the cost of a one carat engagement ring, saying, “Why can’t women just like a piece of cut granite instead?” I told him I would be happy to put that “Gold and Granite” combination together for him, just don’t expect her to say YES! And I’m sorry, that will be final sale, no refund or return. 

The diamond engagement ring is, let’s face it, all about the love… and, apparently, a healthy bank account! 

Now, with the advent of lab created diamonds that I spoke about in detail in my last article, the bite out of your checking account will not be as large as a natural diamond. In fact, he or she will only have to save for weeks instead of three months time. Just make sure the bride-to-be is aware of your choice of her not receiving a natural diamond; I have seen the faces of many disappointed ladies who found out they were wearing a lab grown diamond when they were under the impression it was a natural diamond.

Richard Alan is a designer/goldsmith, Marco’s “Island Jeweler” for over 30 years, a purveyor of fine diamonds and precious stones, and also the owner of The Harbor Goldsmith of Marco Island with his son and daughter. Harbor Goldsmith is located at the Island Plaza, 680 Bald Eagle Drive on Marco. The Jeweler’s Daughter and Richard welcome your questions and comments about All That Glitters. www.harborgoldsmith.com.