Coastal Breeze News » Speaking of Travel

Learning another Language

Mint Design Co. — Fri, 03 May 2013 14:08:19 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL
Vickie Kelber
vickieonmarco@comcast.net

When we visit a country in which a language other than English is spoken, I always try to acquire some knowledge of that language. For me, it is part of the fun of learning about that country and its culture. It aids in communication when traveling, shows a respect for another culture, and it’s good brain exercise!

This garlic found at a market in Bern is “do not peel” from France, good for all uses. Photos by Vickie Kelber

At times, a little knowledge of the local language has meant survival. We enjoy being independent and visiting places off the beaten track; this means that we frequently find ourselves in places and situations where no one speaks English. Knowing a bit of the language has helped when we were lost in the very rural Emmental region of Switzerland. In Greece, it assisted in negotiating our way on buses to travel all over the country. Once while staying in Sintra, Portugal, I got on an incorrectly marked bus. Not soon enough I realized that I was in the hinterlands outside of town rather than back at our apartment. With my very limited knowledge of Portuguese, I was able to tell the driver my plight and find out how to get back to town. He dropped me at a small cafe in the middle of seemingly nowhere. I was a little skeptical, but I did get safely back to the apartment.

When we visited the Czech Republic and Hungary soon after the fall of the Iron Curtain, I was still working and only had time to learn a few phrases and courtesies in those languages. Fortunately, when we were in some difficult situations, I found that the older citizens of those countries spoke German and was able to use that language to communicate.

The downside of learning a bit of the language, though, is that if you become somewhat facile and use it, people often assume you actually know the language. Too many times, I have begun simple conversations when walking into a store or purchasing tickets, only to have the other person continue on rapidly with the conversation leading to my blank stare and apologies that I don’t REALLY speak or understand their language.

The sign on this shop in Nafplio, Greece advertises worry beads

If a country uses an alphabet other than a derivative of the Latin alphabet, it is helpful to learn it. Off the tourist trail in Greece, many signs were only in Greek; knowing the alphabet was helpful in getting around. In Moscow, we would have had great difficulty in the very large, crowded metro stations where many lines come together. All of the signs were in the Cyrillic alphabet. I remember one station in particular that had columns and columns of signs with all of the stops listed. It was a little overwhelming at first to try to find our destination. I enlisted my husband’s assistance by asking him to look for a word that began with a letter that “looked like a house” which was my way of describing the letter “D” in Cyrillic.

Although I am a visual learner, I have found that language instruction DVDs transferred to my iPod has become the most efficient for me because I don’t have to find extra time to work on the language. When I take my morning walk, I pop on the iPod and begin learning/practicing. So, yes, if you see me walking and it appears I am talking to myself, I am really just preparing for our next trip.

There are many programs available for learning another language. My favorite is the “Learn in your Car” series, but they don’t have all languages as I found out when trying to learn Croatian. Pimsleur is an effective, albeit expensive series. It’s not great for learning typical tourist phrases, but it gives a good understanding of the structure of the language. I’ve used it to gleam some basic knowledge and then branched out to other programs for more tourist vocabulary. Travelzoo.com frequently offers it half-price. I’ve also used Living Language, Berlitz, and the “Learn (whatever language) in 7 Days” programs; the In-Flight DVDs are limited to just 60 minutes but do provide some good basic phrases. Penton Overseas and Transparent.com are good resources for language instruction materials.

There are many options online for learning a language. I always have good intentions to pursue online learning and have even started once or twice. Alas, I never stick with it; time always seems to be an issue. The Collier County Library system subscribes to Mango Language which offers a large selection of languages; access it via the library’s website. BBC.co.uk/languages has free online instruction for 40 languages and you can even download audio files to use on your iPod. Rosetta Stone is the premium language course, but it’s price has always made it out of my league for casual learning. Transparent.com can be expensive, but less so than Pimsleur or Rosetta and there is a free express Before you Know It that you can download for many languages.

Babbel is highly rated, but limited to 11 languages. There is a small monthly fee for it, but a free trial is offered. Livinglanguage.com and Rocket Language also offer free trials and the former offers some free downloads. Learnalanguage.com has games and flash cards for 8 languages. Memrise.com is a site that claims to use a method based on “brain science”. Busuu.com is an online community for learning a language. FSI-language-courses.org provides text and audio courses that can be downloaded; from the Foreign Services Institute, the material is quite a bit dated. If you enjoy podcasts, search iTunes for various language lessons including many that are free.

A good way to learn the names of local produce is by visiting markets such as this one in Florence.

There are numerous Apps for smartphones and tablets. Babbel and TripLingo are highly rated. Busuu offers a companion app as does the costly Rosetta Stone. BYKI has a free version and Living Language allows you to try introductory lessons. MindSnacks uses a game approach but only offers 6 languages.

Of course, if learning a new language is too daunting for you, you can always just purchase a pocket phrasebook and use it as you need it. Carrying a notebook with you is helpful. You can write down key phrases to use, write down an address, or draw a picture to aid in communication. And, if you do try to speak a word but have the pronunciation wrong and receive a quizzical look from someone to whom you are inquiring, you could always write down the word. This happened to us the first time I tried to find the zoo in Basel, Switzerland. I asked, “Wo ist der Zoo” pronouncing zoo the way we do in English. After repeating it a few times, the Swiss gentleman I was asking realized I wanted to find the “zooh”. For those of you more technologically inclined, there are wonderful translation apps that you can use on your smart phone or tablet rather than the old fashioned notebook. At the very least, though, try to learn a few phrases of courtesy/necessity such as “please,” “thank you,” “good day” and “where is the bathroom?

Vickie is a former member of the Marco Island City Council and Artistic Director of the Marco Island Film Festival, and has been a volunteer for many island organizations. She is presently on the board of the Naples Mac Users Group. Prior to relocating to Marco, Vickie served as a school psychologist, Director of Special Services, and college instructor and also was a consultant to the New Jersey Department of Education.

On the Road from Santa Fe

Mint Design Co. — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 03:56:26 +0000

With Santa Fe as a base, there are some interesting, easy day trips that feature

the varied sites and terrain that are New Mexico. WIthin just an hour or so drive are wide open vistas, artisan communities, religious and historic locales, alpine escapes, scientific enclaves, inspirational settings, cowboy ghost towns and hippie/motorcycle culture haunts.

The ghost town of Cerrillos was the perfect setting for Young Guns and Lonesome Dove.

The most popular day or overnight trip from Santa Fe is to Taos following either the high or low road. The high road with its dramatic scenery, traditional villages, artisans, and galleries is about a two and a half hour drive north, but enticing stops along the way can easily add more time to the trip. The low road takes just under an hour and a half. Along the high road, Chimayo, a village known for its weaving is also the location of El Santuario de Chimayo which is known as the “Lourdes of the Southwest.” It attracts thousands of pilgrims each year who seek the healing powers ascribed to the dirt in the anteroom of the church or simply spiritual renewal. Nearby Truchas, at 8,000 feet in the shadow of 13,000 foot Truchas Peak was used by Robert Redford for the filming of “The Milagro Beanfield;” today it is home to a thriving artist community.

In a prior column, I wrote about the Taos Pueblo, the premier site in this area. The town of Taos, surrounded by the Sangre de Christos Mountains, with the pueblo architecture of its downtown plaza, rich history, art culture and museums deserves additional time for a visit. Kit Carson lived here and his restored home is now a museum, as is the former home of Ernest Blumenschein, the founder of the the Taos Society of Artists. The Millicent Rogers Museum features Native American, Hispanic and Anglo art of the Southwest. Three additional museums, shops, restaurants and trolley tours make Taos a worthwhile destination.

Shopping in the pueblos of Taos Plaza offer Southwest inspired merchandise.

Another half hour north is Taos Ski Valley, but with its alpine terrain it seems a world away. The cooler air and lush greenery make it a nice diversion from the dusty browns and magentas of land below it. There are some restaurants here, including one with Bavarian cuisine. During spring, summer and fall, activities are limited to lift rides, hiking, and horseback riding. In a conversation with the manager of the ski area, he told us that he is looking to add activities such as a zip line and other summer amenities that are becoming typical at ski resorts.

Thirty-five miles northwest of Santa Fe is Los Alamos. Started as a town for the nuclear research facility, Los Alamos National Laboratory where J. Robert Oppenheimer and others developed the atomic bomb, it now offers the Bradbury Science Museum as well as the Los Alamos Historical Museum and Fuller Lodge Art Center. The Bradbury, operated by the National Laboratory, features interactive displays on the history of the Manhattan Project as well as the research conducted by the Lab today in the areas of life science, energy, the environment and supercomputing.

This bar in the former miner’s commissary in Madrid boasts that it is the longest bar in New Mexico.

The Los Alamos area is the portal to Bandelier National Monument mentioned in an earlier “Speaking of Travel” column and the Valles Caldera National Preserve. One of only three super volcanoes in the United States, this preserve offers hiking, fishing, hunting, bike and horse back riding, van tours, as well as snowshoeing and cross country skiing in the winter. During the summer, the preserve is home to an elk herd of approximately 3,000.

If you do visit the Los Alamos/Bandelier area, take a moment to drive to the White Rock Overlook for an unparalleled panoramic view of the Rio Grand Canyon and surrounding mountains. It is located off Route 4, just beyond the White Rock Visitor Center. Turn off Route 4 for the parking lot for the Bandelier shuttle; continue past the lot, take the first left and follow the signs.

Another picturesque option northwest of Santa Fe is an excursion into what is known as Georgia O’Keefe country. On this trip, see the many rugged, colorful barrancas (gorges), mesas and mountains that inspired her. Head toward Abiquiu (AH – bee- cue) where she lived during the winter and spring. Guided tours of her home and ranch here are available by reservation only. She spent summer and fall at her second home known as Ghost Ranch, ten miles away. The 21,000 acre ranch is now a Presbyterian education and retreat center. Her house is not open to the pubic, but visitors can hike along the trails or take an O’Keefe themed walking, horse back or bus tour. There are museums of paleontology and anthropology here. Overnight accommodations are available, as are massages and body wraps The center runs numerous courses ranging from archeology to the arts, wellness and spirituality.

A visit to the Taos Ski Valley’s alpine terrain provides cool, green diversion from the brown and magenta landscape below it.

South of Santa Fe, a popular excursion is the Turquoise Trail off Route 14, to Albuquerque. So named because turquoise was mined here for thousands of years by the Native Americans, Spaniards, Mexicans and Americans. It is scenic, with its rolling hills and mountain background. Historically, outlaws roamed the hills, as did Confederate soldiers. It was part of the trail of the “Long Walk of the Navajo” in 1864 when they were forced at gunpoint from their homes in Arizona and New Mexico to confinement at Fort Sumner.

The former mining town, now turned ghost town, of Cerrillos made the perfect location for the filming of “Young Guns” and “Lonesome Dove.” It’s church, “hanging” tree, Mary’s bar, deserted hotel and dusty streets are certainly evocative of the “old west.” In its heyday, the 1880s, it supported four hotels, eight newspapers and 21 saloons. Alas, the mines (gold, silver, lead, zinc) went dry.

The town of Madrid (MAD rid), once a bustling coal mining company town at first, met the same fate as Cerrillos. In the 1960’s and 70’s though, it was “discovered” by hippies and artists… later by bikers. Parts of “Easy Rider” and “Wild Hogs” were filmed here. Now it’s one street flourishes (to a degree) with galleries, shops, a mining museum and restaurants, including one that was the miner’s commissary and home to what is said to be the longest bar in New Mexico. Madrid is known for its Christmas light display which was so bright in the 1920’s (when the town’s electricity from the coal company was unlimited) that TWA used to divert night flights over Madrid so passengers could see the spectacle. The Christmas light display has been revived, but, of course, not to the extent of the days of unlimited electricity.

Approaching Albuquerque along the Turquoise Trail, a side trip can be made up to 10,000 foot Sandia Crest for an aerial tram ride to the top and a panoramic view of the city and the Rio Grande valley.

For our many day excursions from Santa Fe, we decided to upgrade our full size rental car to a Ford Escape SUV. Traversing the many mountain roads, we were glad we did.

I have always found booking rentals through Costco to be the most economical and even when we decided to upgrade at the airport, we were able to use Costco’s special rates.

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Back Again in our own Backyard

Mint Design Co. — Sat, 06 Apr 2013 04:02:35 +0000

Snapping turtles can live as long as 100 years!

The unique ecology that is Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park is located about 45 minutes from Marco Island. It is a linear swamp forest of about 80,000 acres, which translates to approximately 20 miles long and 5 miles wide. Although it is a part of the state park system, it is actually a state nature preserve and thus, more highly preserved and regulated than a park. It is the largest state park in Florida; larger than the next three combined Loosely defined, a strand means a moving body of water. Fakahatchee is truly Florida wilderness.

In 1913, the area was purchased by Lee Tidewater Cypress Company for logging which commenced in the 1940’s when the wood was used in mine sweepers, PT boats and on the decks of aircraft carriers. During the late 40’s as much as one million cubic feet of cypress a week was taken from this area, virtually stripping the southern portion. By the late 50s, logging was exhausted and there was interest by the Gulf- American Land Company in developing the area as a southern extension of Golden Gate Estates; some people purchased property and they or their families still own lots or private dwellings within the preserve.

In 1972, as part of the settlement regarding illegal dredge and fill by Gulf-American in Cape Coral, some land was acquired by the state. In 1974, under the Environmentally Endangered Lands Act, about one-third of the present preserve land area was purchased by the state. Further acquisitions continue and are still ongoing. Fakahatchee Strand became a state park in 2000. In addition to the clear cut logging of its earlier days, there were also farms in the area and some grapefruit and orange trees remain within the park.

Swamp lilies bloom in the Strand.

The ongoing Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan (CERP) is important for the survival of Fakahatchee. The Prairie Canal that was dredged in the early 60’s to drain the area for development has damaged this fragile area; by backfilling this canal, CERP will help restore the natural flow of water to the preserve.

The park is staffed with three full-time rangers and a core of passionate, knowledgeable and hard working volunteers. The Friends of Fakahatchee is a very active citizen support group that assists with maintenance, funding and education. They man a new visitor center as well as host a variety of events. The small center is chock full of interesting models and information about the area. I was fascinated by the replica of the cigar orchid. This orchid, once found in Fakahatchee, has been poached to extinction in the area. However, in an agreement with Cuba, that country has supplied Fakahatchee with seeds and reseeding is occurring.

On a trial basis, the Friends are running ghost tram tours of the Strand; the tours are named after the elusive ghost orchid which blooms within the park. The two and a half hours tour provides an alternative to putting on boots and sloshing through the muck on one of their guided swamp tours. It is their hope that these tours will continue on a regular basis beginning in November.

On the tour, we examined a variety of habitats, including prairies, swamps, and hardwood hammocks. Most of the area is made up of limestone. Not like the limestone found up north, this is calcium carbonate, made from shells and very porous. There are good examples of just how porous it is (and why we are so subject to sinkholes in Florida) near the visitor center. Our guide shared with us a somewhat fossilized sand dollar encased in limestone that was recently found, indicating that this area was once under water. Although we did not visit the southern part of the park, it consists of an estuary.

The cardinal airplant adds a splotch of color among the foliage.

Among the fauna we saw were deer, a raccoon, snakes, a snapping turtle, butterflies and a variety of birds including hawks; a previous tram tour had encountered a bear. Our guide noted that seeing deer means that the area can sustain a healthy panther population; panthers eat one deer a week to survive.

While on the tram, we also happened on some students conducting an experiment. They are trapping and radioing marsh rabbits; their theory is that if a python eats a radioed rabbit, they will be able to track down the python. To date, one such rabbit has been ingested, but the python spit out the radio. In the southern section, there are crocodiles and manatees.

The flora in Fakahatchee is distinctive. It is home to between 7,000 and 10,000 royal palms – the largest number in the United States – as well as the largest concentration and variety of orchids in North America. This is the only place in our country where you can see a mixture of royal palms and mixed hardwoods, especially bald cypress. It is on the pop ash trees where ghost orchids can be found – usually in July.

The bald cypress provide a canopy that makes the Fakahatchee ideal for orchids and there are at least 44 native ones that have been located. There are also 14 native bromeliads throughout the area. On our trip, in addition to the various trees, we saw duck potato flowers, swamp lilies, numerous epiphytes including the brightly hued cardinal air plant, the seed pod of a wild coco orchid, an African spotted orchid, and a pine pink orchid in bloom. There also is an abundance of poison ivy here!

Although Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk on Route 41 east of Marco is part of Fakahatchee Strand, the visitor center from where the tram tour embarked is located on Janes Scenic Drive. Janes Scenic Drive, once the main logging rail line, was named for Winford Janes, a one time local farmer, businessman, and Collier County Commissioner. Take US-41 east to SR-29, turn left off of SR-29 onto Janes Scenic Drive to the visitor center. There is no entrance fee, but a nominal donation is requested.

Pine pink orchid, one of 44 species found in Fakahatchee.

There are a number of hiking trails in the Fakahatchee; I’m told a good one is about six and a half miles past the visitor center, through Gate 12. East and West Main Tram trails, so named because they were built to haul the cypress logs, are also good hikes. There is a canoe and kayak launch at East River, south of US-41. In addition to the aforementioned swamp walks offered by Friends of Fakahatchee, there are also guided canoe trips. Their website is http://www.friendsoffakahatchee.org.

Incidentally, a big “thank you” to Jo-Ann Sanborn, Marco’s resident Everglades artist for letting me know about this tour; Jo-Ann’s studio gallery is located at the Esplanade and her daily blog (http://www.joannsanborndaily.com) is often full of information about her beloved Everglades.

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Native American Heritage of Santa Fe

Mint Design Co. — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:58:36 +0000

Native American heritage is an integral part of the culture of New Mexico. Earliest evidence of habitation dates to 25000BC; around 10000BC the Clovis-Paleo hunter gatherers roamed the areas. Anasazi cliff dwellers, the ancient ancestors of the Pueblo people, were here as early as the 12th century BC, although their culture thrived in the years 500BC. With the ascendency of agriculture, villages sprung up which, when discovered by the Spanish in the 1500s, were called “pueblos.”

Within an easy drive of Santa Fe, New Mexico are a number of important Native American sights. About an hour drive north and well worth the trip is Bandolier National Monument. A 1.2 mile trail affords the opportunity to get “up close” to Anasazi cliff dwellings believed to have been settled in the 12th century. We have seen a number of cliff dwellings throughout the southwest, but these have been the most impressive.

Visitors are free to wander among the ruins, kivas (underground rooms used for religious ceremonies), and the cliff dwellings, some of which are adorned with petroglyphs and pictographs. Ladders placed throughout the complex allow visitors to climb up and look into or enter individual chambers. A further half mile walk leads to the Alcove House, where climbing four ladders leads 140 feet above the canyon floor for a look inside this cave…not for the faint hearted! There is a museum with an explanatory film at the visitor center. Note that as a result of the fire and floods of 2011, access to Frijoles Canyon, the location of the visitor center and archeological sites, is by mandatory shuttles from nearby White Rock. Signs along the highway to Bandolier direct visitors to the shuttle parking lot; it is estimated that this shuttle access will continue until at least 2014.

Just a half hour from Santa Fe is Pecos National Monument where the remains of a 14th century pueblo community abandoned in the 1800’s and 17th century mission can be viewed. The Visitor Center houses a small but comprehensive museum detailing the history and lifestyle of the Pecos Pueblos.

Surrounding Santa Fe are what are known as the “Eight Northern Pueblos,” two are north of the city, six are south. If time is limited and only one can be visited, I would recommend Taos. A national historic landmark and the first UNESCO living world heritage site, Taos pueblo is considered the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States, dating to perhaps as early as 1000AD. Relatively unchanged since the Spanish discovered it in the 1500’s, it contains the largest collection of multi-story adobe pueblo dwellings in the US. Still inhabited by the Tewa people, visitors, after paying an entrance fee, can wander about on their own or take a guided tour. Our tour guide was a young woman who had grown up on the Pueblo and whose family still returns for ceremonies throughout the year. She provided us with much information about the history of her people as well as their present day life.

Life in Taos Pueblo still follows ancient tradition although modern “conveniences” such as doors and windows have been added to structures. Cooking is still done in outdoor ovens called hornos. The children attend a Pueblo elementary school. At the end of this education, parents choose whether to send their offspring to the town of Taos for high school. Our guide’s family did choose this option and she described what was quite a culture and language shock for her going from the small native school to the town high school. She is now enrolled in a nursing program at the local branch of the University of New Mexico.

Attempts by the early missionaries to convert the Native Americans to Christianity resulted in a mixture of religious culture in Taos Pueblo. Although the original missionary church (1619) is a ruin adjacent to the cemetery, the new San Geronimo Church, built in 1850, combines native religion with Catholicism. While many of the residents are Catholic, they have preserved their native religious rites, including burial rituals. The Pueblo People enjoy sharing their Feast and Dance Days with visitors. Our guide passionately described the ceremonies in great detail and encouraged us to return during one of them for a memorable experience. It is during these festivals that the residents shed their jeans and Nike sneakers for more traditional costume.

Among the Pueblos south of Santa Fe, Santa Clara and San Ildefonso are probably the most visited. Santa Clara, large in terms of land mass and population, is the site of the Puye Cliff Dwellings settled in the 13th centuries. Guided tours of these ancestral homes are available. Within the Pueblo, some of the artisan studios are open to the public and there are galleries for purchases, particularly of the black and red decorated pottery for which Santa Clara is known.

San Ildefonso Pueblo was made famous by Maria Martinez, a noted potter who created the black on black pottery technique which has become popular with collectors. Learn about this technique in the Pueblo Museum or purchase some pieces or other artwork in one of the shops, some of which operate out of homes.

There is an etiquette to follow in visiting living Pueblos, especially during Feast days. Most of it is common sense, but if you plan a visit, familiarize yourself with the rules which include not entering private homes unless they are clearly marked as shops, not climbing on ladders and not entering cemeteries. Except during Feast days, photos are usually permitted, but there is a for-fee permit required. Non-permitted cameras including cell phones can be confiscated.

If your visit to Santa Fe is limited and you do not have time to visit one of the wonderful Native American sites, at least allow some time to visit the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture located on Museum Hill in Santa Fe Its present long-term exhibition theme, Here, Now, and Always tells the story of the people of the southwest and the diversity of its history, art, language, and cultures. Among other wonderful showcases, there is a film of Maria Martinez (who died in 1980) and her son that demonstrates her black on black pottery technique. The process involved in this non wheel, carbon trapping smoke firing technique is fascinating.

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The Rich Texture of Santa Fe

Mint Design Co. — Sat, 09 Mar 2013 03:24:44 +0000

Situated at 7,000 feet above sea level in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the southern range of the Rockies, Santa Fe has a mild climate with an annual rainfall of 14 inches and snowfall of 32 inches. Visiting this capital of New Mexico, three aspects impressed me immediately; the architecture, the art, and the richly textured history reflected in today’s mixture of cultures.

It’s not that we were unfamiliar with adobe or pueblo style architecture. We once house hunted with friends in St. George, Utah where all the newer developments emphasize this style. And we have good friends in Prescott, Arizona who have a beautiful pueblo home. What was so unique in Santa Fe was the ubiquity of the style. Not only the homes, but also the shops, restaurants, hotels, spas, and museums feature this style.

The early Native Americans used building materials immediately available – sand, clay, water, and fibrous material – such as sticks or straws – to build their structures of adobe bricks, with large logs called vigas providing support. When the Spanish explored this area in the 16th century, they called the adobe communities in which the natives lived “pueblos,” which means village in Spanish. Although the emphasis on what has become known as “Santa Fe style” can be traced to a movement begun in 1912, the passing of the Historic Zoning Ordinance in 1957 insured perpetuation of Spanish Territorial and Pueblo style architecture.

Santa Fe has attracted a large number of artists. As we drove about the area surrounding Santa Fe, I began to “get” what artists see here. The striations of color and interplay of light and dark begin in the flatlands and build to a crescendo as they rise into the mesas and mountains with the variegated sky topping it off.

Perhaps because we visited during one of Santa Fe’s many fine arts and crafts markets when tents are set up in the parklike center of the Plaza, the focal point of Santa Fe, we thought the number of artists here was impressive.

First, there are the individual artisans. In addition to the various regularly scheduled markets, there is the Native American Vendors program. Daily, Native American artists can be found under the portal of The Palace of the Governors, now the New Mexico Museum of History with their works spread out on bright blankets. According to one of the artists I spoke with, there are many Native American artists registered in this program. Each day, some show up for the 8 AM lottery which determines who will get one of the 68 designated spots. Yes, there are many shops selling Native American art in Santa Fe, but by purchasing through this program you are guaranteed authenticity and that profits do go back to the Native pueblos. There also is the Santa Fe Artists Market, again a lottery selection of fine arts and crafts from local artists at the Railyard Park, just outside the downtown area every Saturday from April through December.

Then, there are the galleries. Canyon Road, which was once a Native American trail, is the most popular location for a gallery stroll; there are more than 100 galleries, restaurants, and boutiques. One gallery after another, sculpture gardens, and hidden courtyards line both sides of the street for three quarters of a mile. Canyon Rd. is not the only location for galleries in this art friendly city; there are others spread about and the Guadeloupe District, the location of warehouses and the railway, is becoming increasingly popular for artisans.

Finally, there are the museums. Of course, Georgia O’Keefe is synonymous with Santa Fe and although her homes are a drive away, her museum is located downtown. I am an O’Keefe fan, but was a little disappointed in the museum. Through film, a docent talk, and displays of artifacts from her life, it did a wonderful job of educating about her.

There were works from as early as her teens and photos from throughout her life including early ones by her husband, Alfred Steiglitz, and later ones by Ansel Adams. There was a landscape that was fascinating in that there was a photo of the actual location right next to it; it was striking to see how detailed her representation truly was. I thought, though, that there were not a lot of her works in the museum. Perhaps they hang in museums and private collections elsewhere, but I was hoping to see more of her New Mexico landscapes.

Other museums in the city include the New Mexico Museum of Art featuring art of the Southwest, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, and a not to be missed Museum of International Folk Art. I know, folk art? Trust me, this museum tends to be a visitor favorite; even my husband who had to be cajoled into going enjoyed it.

The history of Santa Fe is rich. Here you will see what is said to be the oldest house in the United States, as well as the oldest public building and oldest church.

The earliest evidence of humans in this area dates to 25,000 BC and the Sandia people while Clovis-Paleo culture hunted and roamed the area around 9000 BC. Anasazi cliff dwellers, also known as the Ancestral Pueblo, may have been here as early as the 12th century BC, and the advent of agriculture saw the rise around 1100 AD of the Pueblo who were primarily Tewa people. Around 1500 AD, Navaho and Apache tribes came from the north, later followed by Utes and Comanches.

Coronado claimed this area for Spain in 1540. Following 300 years of primarily Spanish and Mexican rule, the Treaty of Guadeloupe that ended the Mexican American War in 1848 ceded New Mexico to the United States. New Mexico become the 47th state in 1912. A great overview of the history of the area can be found in the New Mexico History Museum.

The Santa Fe Trail, later became the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad and eventually the famed Route 66 brought trappers, traders, merchants and cattle barons to this area followed by archeologists, artists, writers, oilmen, and the military. The mixture of Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo cultures is celebrated today in the art, food, heritage, festivals and faces of Santa Fe.

Santa Fe calls itself “The City Different”. It is, if nothing else, diverse, interesting, memorable, and unlike any other state capital I have ever visited.

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Caveat Emptor

Mint Design Co. — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:44:18 +0000

When we travel and are going to be in a location for at least a week, we prefer renting an apartment, condo, or small house. Why? Certainly not for an opportunity to cook. I don’t cook at home, why would I cook on vacation? It is convenient, though, to have a refrigerator for beverages and snacks, as well as a coffee maker and a teapot and there is often more privacy in a rental.

The entrance to our rental apartment.

How does one protect one’s self when renting an unknown property? Obviously, the best way to be safe is to rent only from a reputable agency. However, with the advent of the internet, there are now many opportunities to rent directly from an owner. The advantage to a by owner rental is that it can be less expensive because it cuts out the middle man and the percentage of the rent that goes to him/her. Another advantage is that more choices may be available as more and more owners opt to rent on their own rather than through an agency.

There are a number of online sites that offer rentals by owner. Flipkey.com is owned by Trip Advisor and can also be accessed via the site, tripadvisor.com/vacationrentals. Redweek.com is a clearinghouse for time share rentals. Homeaway.com has a large array of listings, including international and there are filters for searching. Homeaway also owns cyberrentals.com, vacationrentals.com, and vrbo.com. The site vrbo.com lists US properties only; I have found homeaway.com to be easier to negotiate. Other sites include greatrentals.com and ownerdirect.com. Craigslist is not recommended as a “safe” place to find a rental.

Our apartment’s courtyard provided a cozy, private location to relax after a day of sightseeing.

There have been cases reported in the media recently where people rented through some of the above sites, particularly Craigslist, and when they arrived at the rental property found that they were victims of fraud; someone other than the homeowner had listed the rental and collected the money.

This past year, we planned a trip to Santa Fe. I just couldn’t find the right rental for us via the reputable agencies. In fact, I found the choices offered by agencies to be rather limited; I did, however, find exactly what we wanted on a rental by owner site.

How can one be sure about a property offered on a by owner site? Do due diligence.

Make sure there are a lot of photos. If only one room is shown, you have to wonder what you are not seeing. If the listing doesn’t include a map, check out the satellite and street views on Google maps.

Read the reviews posted on the rental sites. Some of the sites such as Trip Advisor let you email the reviewer for further verification. I’ve had people email me when I’ve posted reviews on Trip Advisor. Be skeptical if there are no reviews available. It’s actually sometimes good if there are a few (very few) negatives. Not everyone likes everything and some people just have to complain. Many of the rental sites allow the owners to respond to a negative comment; it’s instructive reading those responses. On the property we were interested in, someone complained that there was a dirt road back to the house; research showed that is common in that neighborhood.

Do a Google search of the property name, address, and owner’s name. Often, the property will be listed on more than one site and you might find additional reviews. Check out the county tax listings to see who owns the property.

Looking out from our apartment’s window provided a lovely view of the Santa Fe landscape.

On websites such as homeaway, vrbo, and vacationrentals, an insurance guarantee starting at $39 can be purchased to protect the renter against internet fraud and factors such as if the property is foreclosed upon, has been doubled booked, or the owner withholds your security.

Owners can obtain a “seal” from rentalseal.com for their listing which verifies that the person offering the property is indeed the owner.

Email the owners with any questions you might have or to establish contact. If they don’t respond promptly, that is not a good sign. You have to wonder, if there were a problem after you closed the deal, would they respond promptly?

If possible, call the owner. Get a “feel” for him or her. Remember, he/she wants to rent the property. If the owner is curt with you, that may not be a good sign. If you are skeptical about the person, ask an “idiot questions” – something that might point out if you are being told only what you want to hear. Double check on what is listed. If the WIFI listed in the property details is important to you, make sure it is up and running.

If some things weren’t clear in the listing, ask; What exactly does “walking distance to town center” mean? How far is it? What is the pathway? Living here on Marco we are familiar with how important it is to find out what “beach access” really means.

Some cities license private rentals. In Santa Fe, the city licenses official vacation rentals and it is a vigorous qualifying process including annual inspections and payment of a licensing fee. All advertising for the rental must include the license number and the city does review various rental websites to find any that are operating without a license. There is also an official city website on which licensed rentals may advertise.

Make sure there is a contract or lease clearly spelling out conditions and responsibilities and that the cancellation policy is stated. Look for any extra fees such as cleaning or seasonal surcharges. Some rentals charge extra for linens and some impose an energy surcharge. Also make certain that you have 24 hour contact information for the owner in case there are any problems.

Before renting I called our landlady and had a long chat with her; she provided us with her home, work, and cell phone numbers. To secure the property, I had to either pay the entire rent and security deposit via PayPal or send a personal check. Via PayPal, I would have had to pay the PayPal fees which are about 3 -4 percent of the total. Often, rentals by owners won’t accept credit cards, so the renter doesn’t have the protections that many cards provide. PayPal buyer protection is only for goods…and if the arrangements are made too far in advance the protection offered by the credit card you use for PayPal no longer applies. Since I have had security problems with PayPal in the past, I try to avoid using them, so I paid by check. After speaking with her and researching references, I felt that owner who lives on site and has a local business was sincere and I felt good about the city licensing. In fact, I think it was the licensing that finally convinced me. Be wary of any requests for payment by money order, bank (wire) transfer, or cashier’s check.

Rentals by owners open up more choices and save money, but you have to be cautious and due a little research. As the saying goes, caveat emptor.

By the way, our rental was perfect. Nicely decorated, immaculate, and comfortable, it was in a peaceful yet convenient location and had all necessary amenities. Our first experience with rental by owner was a success.

About The Author

Far from the Crowds on the Amalfi Coast

Verlapost — Sat, 09 Feb 2013 15:42:53 +0000

By Vickie Kelber

vickieonmarco@comcast.net

Pogerola, perched high above Amalfi, is a walker’s paradise.

Scala is peaceful alternative to the crowded towns along the Amalfi Coast.

Due to the many staircases in Priano, workers often use donkeys to haul materials.

Maori has the longest waterfront promenade on the Amalfi Coast. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER

The dramatic landscape of the Amalfi Coast draws throngs of tourists. In fact, during the busiest time of the year, tour buses are only allowed to travel one way on the narrow, twisting main road. The better known towns of Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and even smaller Ravello become invaded by tour groups during the day.

If one is looking for an extended stay on the Amalfi Coast, there are some lovely options for a quieter location. I’ve already written about the virtues of Atrani, right next to Amalfi

(http://www.coastalbreezenews.com/2013/01/10/room-with-a-view-the-amalfi-coast).

Minori and Maiori are neighboring towns that were named by the Romans for the two rivers, Reginna Minor and Reginna Major flowing from the mountains to the sea. Minori is the smaller but more charming. There is a beautiful yellow washed basilica which dates to the 11th century and a waterfront promenade. The Villa Romana is the remains of a 1st century two story Roman villa. A special treat in Minori is a visit to the waterfront Pasticceria De Riso, a shop/cafe owned by TV personality and Italy’s best known pastry chef, Sal de Riso.

Maiori has the largest waterfront promenade on the Amalfi Coast. Unfortunately, the town itself is not as picturesque as all the others. As is the practice in towns along the coast, the river had once been capped. During a flood in the 1950s, the cap exploded severely damaging the city. It was rebuilt in a more modern and not overly attractive manner. It is a popular vacation spot for visiting Europeans. There are beachfront restaurants as well as a Norman tower that now houses a restaurant. Corso Reginna, the main street through which the river flows below is lined with shops and restaurants and towering above the town is the San Nicola Castle. An advantage of Maiori over some of the other coastal towns is that it is relatively flat; no climbing up and down stairs here.

Praiano was a favored summer retreat for Roman emperors and later the dogi; today it is a popular destination for travelers from the UK and Germany. It is situated next to Positano and the views of that town and the sea are spectacular. On a clear day, one can see Capri. There are hotels and guest houses set along the hillside, restaurants that offer views, and a few shops mostly along the coastal road. There are secluded beaches and what seems to be the requisite multicolored domed church. If you do visit Praiano, be sure to go inside the Church of San Giovanni Battista. The colorful majolica tiled floor is memorable. Praiano would not be my first choice, however, for an extended stay. It doesn’t offer a real town or waterfront promenade and is a maze of alleys and staircases; it seems one has to climb to get anywhere.

Perched 1300 feet above sea level and facing Ravello, Scala is a perfect spot if one doesn’t want to stay right on the water. The oldest town on the Amalfi Coast, it is a peaceful respite from the crowds. One hears birds chirping while looking out on the dramatic views of the valley and sea below. It is a favorite place for returning vacationers, especially those from the UK. There are a few restaurants, including one that I have been told has the best pizza north of Naples (Naples, Italy, that is). Alas, we didn’t have to time to try it, but did enjoy one of the best cups of cappuccino we’ve ever had on the tiny main square of the town.

There are a number of family run hotels in Scala as well as larger hotels and even the opportunity for an agriturismo accomodation, or staying on a farm. Scala offers some unique walks; the local tourist office has a map of “Naturalist Itineraries.” There are also organized walks. Destinations include a grotto replete with stalactites and stalagmites, remains of a castle, and access to a national park.

The main church on the square, Duomo San Lorenzo, on first inspection appears rather simple by Italian standards until one sees the floor and the ceiling. The floor is majolica tile while the intricate painted panels of the ceiling depict the life of the patron saint for whom the church is named.

From Scala, it is a 20 minute walk to Ravello, but there are also frequent buses to it as well as to Amalfi for connections to buses traveling north and south along the coast.

Pogerola, known as “The Terrace Above Amalfi”, is well off the tourist radar. A twenty minute bus ride from Amalfi, it is a world away. There are buses to Amalfi at least hourly, with more during some times of the day. On the bus we took, there were mostly locals and a few savvy travelers. We met a couple from the UK and one other American, the three of them traveling to Pogerola for the walkers’ paradise that it is.

Another option is to walk up from Amalfi, but, at 1,000 steps, that is a trip I would rather take down.

There seem to be limited options for hotels and rentals, but the few there are lovely and it is a very peaceful getaway with cooling breezes and stunning views. Pogerola was once home to the fortifications that defended Amalfi from all manner of invaders including the Saracens, Lombards, and Normans.

There are a few shops here, including one that offers wonderful fruits and vegetables as well as homemade by products such as sun dried tomatoes and fruit. For such a small hamlet, there are a surprising number of restaurants, including one named “Gerry’s Pub”.

There are churches in Pogerola dating to the twelfth and sixteenth centuries. The walks from Pogerola are spectacular; many of them relatively flat. On Tuesdays and Fridays at 5:30PM, there are organized walks offered from the Info Point/Cocktail Bar/Gelato terrace. This multi faceted terrace bar is an alluring place to sit and sip a limoncello or cappuccino or sample homemade lemon granita while overlooking the valley and sea below. A perfect way to enjoy the Amalfi Coast far from the crowds.

Along the Amalfi Coast…

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 24 Jan 2013 21:31:55 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber

vickieonmarco@comcast.net

A Panoramic view of the town of Amalfi along the coast named for it. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER

The most popular destinations for tourists visiting the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy are the towns of Amalfi, Positano, Sorrento, and Ravello. The many shops and restaurants in Amalfi reflect its popularity as a stop for tour buses and cruise lines. Shops feature ceramic products, leather goods, jewelry, everything lemon including soaps and candies, and, of course, limoncello. In fact, there is an overwhelming choice of decorative bottles and types of limoncello. After having tasted a few different kinds, my favorite was green in color, made from lemons just as they are beginning to ripen and turn from green to yellow. My husband’s favorite was one made with panna, or cream.

The commanding presence in Amalfi is the Duomo, Cathedral of St. Andrew, towering above the main square. The steps leading up to it and the adjoining Cloister of Paradise look more difficult to climb than the reality.

The Amalfi Coast is noted for its fragrant lemons; shops offer many by products.

At the end of the main street of the town is a paper museum, Museo Della Carta with a guided tour that was far more interesting that I imagined it would be as the Amalfi tradition of making paper from cotton rags is demonstrated. On the main street in town is a shop that still makes and sells Amalfi style paper.

Amalfi is the origin of ferries and sightseeing vessels to Positano, Sorrento, the Emerald Grotto, and Capri. Boats can also be rented or chartered and there is one place where arrangements can be made to take a boat to a secluded beachfront restaurant situated in a nearby alcove.

There is Internet access at the travel agency, L’Altra Costiera on the main street and if you are traveling on your own rather than with a group, they are a reputable source for booking side tours.

For the more intrepid, there are some nice hikes. Walk through the town, past the museum and there are signs for the Valle dei Mulini, valley of the mills and Vallone delle Ferriera, valley of the iron mills. As the paths rise uphill through acres of lemon groves, one passes streams, waterfalls and the remains of paper and iron mills dating from the 1200 and1400s as well as an ancient aqueduct; it is a slow transition from the valley with its beautiful wildflowers to deep woods. Eventually, the remains of a Norman castle can be reached, but, alas, I never seemed to have enough time to walk that far.

Ravello’s location high above the Mediterranean makes it a romantic location for weddings.

With all the tours that seem to find their way to Amalfi, it can get quite busy and the crowds arrive early in the day. The evening in Amalfi is much more pleasant. If you visit, be sure to wander onto some of the small side alleys. There is one, for example, opposite the steps of the cathedral that was home to some restaurants on a quiet square, away from the frenzy of main street shopping. The restaurants along the waterfront are also a little quieter.

Sorrento presents as more old world elegant than the other coastal towns. The main focal point is the Piazzo Tasso with medieval pedestrian lanes full of shops and restaurants and citrus lined boulevards radiating from it. There are tony designer shops as well as the mid scale Coin Department store and souvenir shops galore at prices that seemed less than those in Amalfi. The main cathedral, Duomo dei SS Filippo e Giacomo is bright and colorful despite its origins from the 15th century. A lesser church is Basilica of Sant’Antonino, while Chiesa di San Francesco is noteworthy for its charming adjacent cloister. One of the days we visited, it was the site of a wedding of a young woman from the UK and a local groom. Just beyond it is Villa Communale, a tiny public park with a beautiful view of the beaches, sea, and Mt. Vesuvius. There is a ramp or for fee elevator down to the beaches and the lesser harbor, Marina Piccola. The major harbor, Marina Grande, with seaside restaurants is to the west. There are two museums of note. A little oasis just beyond the Circumvesuviana train station with its connections to Pompeii, Vesuvius, and Naples is a shaded lemon grove. Stroll through it enjoying the tranquility. At the end there is limoncello sampling and purchase, but you do not have to approach this small sales stand to appreciate this shaded sanctuary.

An air of old world elegance makes Sorrento a lovely place to visit.

Historically, Positano was home of the wealthiest Roman residents and that status seems to be maintained today. It is prettiest when it is approached by boat with its many white and pastel colored houses cascading down to the sea; frequent ferries arrive from surrounding coastal towns. It is difficult for tour buses to stop here, so it is not as overrun as Amalfi and car traffic is very limited. Popular shops sell what has become known as Positano style clothing made of gauze, cotton, or linen. Stroll along the waterfront and enjoy a meal at one of the lovely seaside restaurants. The church of Santa Maria Assunta is a peaceful place to visit. The Casola ceramic factory which has been in existence for 3 generations is located on the coastal road outside of Positano, but they also have a storefront near the church. I preferred, however, the Ceramiche d’Arte shop in Ravello. I thought they had a nicer selection of decorative items and their prices were better. For a custom made stone table that seats 8, it was 4800 euros (including shipping) in Positano; in Ravello, the asking price was 2800 euros. Of course, if you really want to shop for ceramics, the place to go is Vietri sul Mare, the ceramic making center of the Amalfi region.

If you are making a day trip by bus to Positano from one of the other coastal towns, be sure to get off at the Sponda shop and consider a return trip by boat. Positano is in the middle of the Sorrento/Amalfi bus line and the bus is often full by the time it stops in Positano.

Positano style clothing is available for sale in this lovely tourist town.

Of these four popular towns, Ravello was my favorite. Perched 1150 feet above the coast, the views from the gardens of Villa Rufolo, Villa Cimbrone, and Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte are magnificent. A favorite of such people as Richard Wagner, DH Lawrence, Gore Vidal, and Greta Garbo, it is now the site of a well known music festival. Strolling among the pedestrian only streets of Ravello is a delight as is an evening on the main piazza after the day trippers have departed and the “Terrace of Infinity” at Villa Cimbrone with its breath taking views was a highlight of our trip. A nice feature for us was that it was just a 40 minute walk back down to our apartment in Atrani through the “Valley of the Dragon”.

The entire Amalfi coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which means there can be no new building. Most of the structures that exist date from the 10th and 11th centuries, or 17and 18th; it is good to know that they won’t be replaced by modern high rises.

Room with a View… the Amalfi Coast

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 10 Jan 2013 20:22:11 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber
vickieonmarco@comcast.net

Although cruise ships may dock off of Atrani, the crowds head to
nearby Amalfi. Atrani offers a waterside pizzeria restaurant featuring fresh seafood. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER

On the Amalfi Coast, Atrani, the second smallest commune in Italy, is just a blink of an eye bus ride from the much touristed town that gives the area its name; in many ways it is a world away and it is where we choose to rent an apartment for a couple of weeks. It was a perfect choice. Atrani once housed the most noble families of the Amalfi Republic. It was where doges were crowned and buried. In later years, it became home to fishermen and one can still see the lampras or lights of the night fishermen.

Founded by Etruscans, with a church dating to 940 and a population of less than 1000, the residences in Atrani climb down from the cliff to spill out over the sea. It is resplendent with gardens, fragrant lemon groves, courtyards, and stairs, many stairs, including some that lead 1200 feet up to the town of Ravello. The white washed buildings with narrow flower bedecked stairs and alleys are somewhat reminiscent of the old Arabic quarters in Andalucia, Spain, but have a character all their own. Many of the structures appear to be built right into the mountain. Hovering above are stalactite dripping caves and everywhere, lemon trees.

The wee town square, Piazza Umberto, is ringed by cafes frequented by locals with children often playing in the middle. We chose Atrani not only to be away from the hustle and bustle of the busier towns, but because our apartment was right above the water with an incredible view….the sea, the mountains, and, on one side, the main church, Santa Maria Maddalena, built in 1274. On Sunday evenings, we were serenaded by the various choir practices. We called our terrace the “infinity terrace”; it jutted out over the road with the visual effect of vanishing off into the sea.

Some people claim to experience Stendahl’s syndrome in Florence, overcome by the beauty of all the art that is there. Before traveling to Atrani, we had spent a week in Florence. Yes, there was beauty, but it was our third time there and we have seen alluring art in many places. My first morning wandering about Atrani, discovering hidden jewels such as a waterfall with ducks frolicking in its pool, the beauty was entrancing and I think I experienced my first touch of Stendahl’s.

I loved walking the maze of stairs and if I lost my way, I just listened for the sound of the surf to orient myself. I loved that I could always tell the time by the church bells that rang every fifteen minutes. A weaker bell one, two or three times for the fifteen minute intervals after the hour and stronger bells ringing out the hour. Yet they weren’t intrusive. I had to consciously listen for them and not once did they wake us up.

There are a few shops in Atrani including the Pescaria of the Doges (fish store), a cheese shop, butcher shop, a fresh produce store, and two small convenience stores. And, of course, the local “gentleman’s social club”. In a dark hovel of a garage, morning, noon and night, the doors were open and inside a group of local men could be seen seated around a table adjacent to the cars playing cards.

Piazza Umberto, Atrani’s tiny town square is a pleasant place to dine.

There are four major restaurants in Atrani and three cafes. The first night we went to La Palme restaurant. Our waiter greeted us with a complementary aperitif, the house specialty. After a dinner of peppered mussels with lemon, the freshest and most tender we have ever tasted, and spaghetti in clams for me and ravioli in squid sauce for my husband, we turned down dessert. Yet, our waiter brought us a complimentary chocolate concoction that we had no problem scarfing down. It was heaven! Followed by local green lemoncello (made from lemons before they turn yellow) on our infinity terrace, it was a perfect introduction to this welcoming town.

Early one morning I set out on the path up to Ravello. I walked through farms and endless lemon groves, past a waterfall and houses built into the mountain and I encountered a wizened old man with double canes. He asked, in Italian, if I was walking to Ravello. I told him, no, only a morning passeggiata. Continuing in Italian, for he spoke no English, he told me all about the Valley of the Dragon as the area is called, pointing out the ancient church high in the mountain and the stalactites of the nearby grotto. He told me what they were called in Italian, I told him the American name. He reached into a cloth bag he was holding and, with a big smile, presented me with a huge lemon with fresh leaves still attached. Che una bella mattina! What a great morning it was!

The main bus line along the coast stops in Atrani and from there we were able to easily access all of the major towns and tiny hamlets of the Amalfi area, as well as those inland and the islands along the coast. I have friends who have driven the Amalfi Coast highway and I salute them. Taking the buses was enough of an adventure for me. It certainly is not for the feint hearted. I do have to compliment the professionalism of the drivers. It amazed us how they were able to negotiate the narrow hairpin turns, especially when encountering a tour bus coming the opposite direction. On our way to Sorrento one morning, in the middle of the country side above the coastline, an alarm went off on the bus. My husband reminded me it was the same sounding alarm as the one that goes off on our boat when something is overheated.

We continued until it was safe for the driver to pull over. He opened the back of the bus from which smoke was pouring. He very calmly fiddled around and then started carrying bottles of water from a nearby roadside restaurant seemingly in the middle of nowhere and pouring them into a tank in the back. As water began to soak the street below, I knew that wasn’t going to work and wondered if we would ever get to Sorrento. About 20 minutes later, an out of service (fuori servizio) bus pulled up, we transferred and continued safely on our journey.

After a day negotiating the larger towns on the coast, it was a pleasure to return to Atrani. It was a minor inconvenience to go to Amalfi for the major bus and boat connections north of that town, but, the peace and quiet and the view was so worth it.

Ah! Tuscany

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 27 Dec 2012 22:21:06 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber
vickieonmarco@comcast.net

As you walk about the hilltowns of Tuscany, peak into the hidden piazzas attached to many of the buildings.

The abundant art in the cities. The countryside dotted with dark green cyprus trees and golden fields. The vineyards. There are so many wonderful places to visit in Tuscany, it is difficult to know where to begin when writing about this region of Italy.

Within the 10 provinces of Tuscany, there are the tourist draws of Florence, Siena, Pisa, San Gimignano. Then there are the small hill towns such as San Quirico d’Orcia, Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Sant’ Angelo in Colle, or the tiny La Befa that offer charm and not more than one or perhaps a few excellent restaurants.

Western Tuscany is home to Pisa where millions of tourists flock to see the iconic Leaning Tower. Actually, all of the buildings on Pisa’s Campo dei Miracoli lean, but none as much as its famous tower. If you must see it, then do, but also take time to stroll through the city to appreciate some of its other architectural treasures. A visit to Pisa is often combined with a stop at Volterra with its walled gateways, cobbled streets, Roman theater and major Etruscan museum and/or a stop at Vinci, birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci.

Northern Tuscany features Carrara, home of the famous marble quarries. Viareggio, an elegant seaside resort and Montecatini Terme, noted for its thermal waters and spas, are popular attractions when one tires of all that history!

The Tuscan hillside is rich with hues of green.

My favorite place in northern Tuscany, however, is Lucca. Lucca is becoming a hot tourist spot, but it is still relatively undisturbed by the hordes. Encircled by ramparts that have been turned into a parklike walkway makes them very inviting for bike riding, and rentals are available. Although considered a hilltown, Lucca is relatively flat which makes negotiating it very easy. The main square, Piazza del Mercato was originally the location of a Roman amphitheater. Palazzo Pfanner offers peaceful gardens; San Martino cathedral has its Volto Sano, an effigy of Christ at the Crucifixion believed to have been carved by Nicodemus, and Puccini’s birthplace has been turned into a museum. There are palazzos that can be visited and the view from the tree topped Torre del Guinigi is well worth the 227 step climb. Mostly, though, Lucca is a delightful place in which to stroll, have a leisurely lunch, and just enjoy.

Central Tuscany features many locations well worth a visit. At the center of the this area is Siena, my favorite city in Tuscany (see: http://www.coastalbreezenews.com/2012/11/15/tuscanys-second-city). The 14 remaining medieval towers of San Gimignano make it a very attractive place to visit, hence the many tour buses that unload there daily. If you are driving, arrive early, otherwise you may be faced with a frustrating time driving around and around until you find a car park with available space. As one of the highest hill towns in Tuscany, car free Montepulciano offers pleasant, if steep, walks among its churches, palazzos, and other Renaissance buildings. There are spectacular views, but the city is probably best known for its wine, vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

And, while on the subject of wine, the area between Florence and Siena is the Chianti Classico wine region. Here are some of the prettiest landscapes of the region as well as a multitude of opportunities for visiting vineyards and wine tasting. Research vineyards before your visit or look for signs that say “vendita diretta”. Alternatively, stop at an enoteca, wine shop, in Greve in Chianti. It is here where the Chianti Classico wine festival is held the second weekend in September.

Another Renaissance jewel is the small city of Pienza, the setting for Zerfferelli’s film, Romeo and Juliet and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Situated in what is called the Val d’Orcia, the entire valley has been thus designated by UNESCO.

I found the tiny village of Bagno Vignoni to be quite charming. Due to its sulphurous springs and thermal waters, it has been a spa town since Roman times. The sulphur pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci is open to the public, or simply dip your feet in one of the springs below the village.

View of Lucca from the Torre del Guinigi. Photos by VICKIE KELBER

Other quieter places we have enjoyed in Central Tuscany are the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore and San Galgano. A dramatic drive through what is called the “Crete Senesi” or “badlands” leads to the cypress lined driveway of the Benedictine monastery established in 1300 at Monte Oliveto. The monastery’s artwork includes a fresco cycle begun by Luca Signorelli. Monks still live and worship here. Check for opening times as it does close for a few hours during the day. It is best to visit on Sunday at 11:00AM or weekdays at 6:15 for Gregorian chants. Note that the evening chants begin after the visiting hours for the frescos, so plan to arrive earlier.

To me, the skeletal remains of the abbey at San Galgano, in the middle of a field, was one of the most evocative places we have been. The trip here is beautiful; through untamed countryside and fields of sunflowers. During the summer, the abbey is the locale for opera performances. Nearby is a church that has been built around the legendary sword in the stone thrust by San Galgano in 1180 as a symbol of his repentance.

Perhaps because we once spent a month on a vineyard in Montalcino, this small town, to me, is a perfect representation of a medieval walled hill town. Not overrun by tourists, it has a fortress, impressive views, some wonderful restaurants, and is known for its wine, Brunello di Montalcino, arguably the best wine in Italy. The nearby beautiful Romanesque abbey of Sant’ Antimo is well worth a visit; the monks chant their prayers at scheduled times throughout the day.

A medieval archery contest takes place annually in Montalcino in the shadow of its 14th century fortress.

Many of you may already be familiar with scenes of Arezzo, in eastern Tuscany, as it was featured in Roberto Benigni’s film, “Life is Beautiful”. As one of what is known as the “twelve cities” of the Etruscan League, it is well preserved . The Church of San Francesco has a Piero della Francesca cycle of frescoes, which some have called one of the best of the Renaissance. A large antiques market is held in the main piazza on the first Sunday of every month. Nearby Cortona is also well known as a result of Francis Mayes’ book and the subsequent film, “Under the Tuscan Sun”. Surrounded by 3000 year old Etruscan walls, it is another classic hill town offering picturesque views.

Southern Tuscany is not visited as much as some of the other areas. The Maremma is a diverse region offering rocky hills, verdant areas, beaches, and attractive coastal towns. Monte Argentario, once an island now connected to the mainland, is a popular resort. From Piombino on the coast, there is a ferry to the island of Elba, where Napoleon was exiled. Massa Maritima, inland, is yet one more scenic medieval city.

Note that the geographic regions I have designated are arbitrary; various guidebooks may use differing classification systems. No matter which region you explore, the history, beauty, food, and wine are sure to please.

Christmas Magic at Disney World

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 13 Dec 2012 18:33:16 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber
vickieonmarco@gmail.com

Christmastime is magical for the child in all of us at Walt Disney World in Orlando. The crowds can be massive, but visiting early in the season helps avoid the mayhem and many hotels within the resort have special offers the first part of December.

The millions of lights and animated displays of the The Osborne Family Spectacle of Dancing Lights dazzle visitors at Disney’s Hollywood Studios. PHOTOS COURTESY WDW (WALT DISNEY WORLD)

First, a few statistics about the holiday decorations at Disney World. It takes 150 semi trailer truckloads of decorations to adorn the theme parks, resorts, and Downtown Disney. This includes 1300 decorated trees, 15 miles of garland, 1314 wreaths, 300,000 yards of ribbon and bows, and 8.5 million lights. Phew!

The Magic Kingdom, from the second week in November until December 21, offers special purchase tickets to Mickey’s Very Merry Christmas Party. At 7:00PM, the park closes to all but those holding tickets and there is festive entertainment, meet and greet opportunities, cookies and hot chocolate, snow falling on Main Street, a Once Upon a Christmastime Parade, and fireworks. The special night lighting of the Cinderella Castle during the holidays is truly like something out of a fairy tale. One year, we were serendipitously there for the taping of the annual TV viewing of the Christmas Parade hosted that year by Kelly Ripa and Regis Philbin. Because of the taping, the parade was offered to all attendees during the day; incredibly, the park wasn’t too crowded.

Animal Kingdom park features a 3:45PM parade with a Christmas theme, as well as a holiday sing-along during the parade.

Mickey’s Once Upon a Christmas time parade complete with falling snow is featured during the special after hours Very Merry Christmas Party during the holiday season.

Disney Hollywood Studios presents the Osborne Family Spectacle of Dancing Lights which opens early November. Featuring more than 10 miles equivalent of 5 million plus twinkling lights synchronized to seasonal music, animated displays and snow flurries, it is a dramatic spectacle. The history of this display is interesting; it began as one family’s Christmas decorations in Arkansas. Jennings Osborne’s display became more elaborate each year until his neighbors took him to court over what they deemed a nuisance due to all the traffic it attracted. The Arkansas Supreme Court ordered Mr. Osborne to “cease and desist” the display. Arkansas’ loss became Disney’s gain as it offered to become the permanent home of the light show. Disney has added to the display and it is a sight that has to be seen to be believed. If you visit, try to find the hidden Mickeys in the lights; there are more than 40 of them. It is said that when the display moved from Arkansas to Orlando, one of Osborne’s purple lighted black Halloween cat was accidentally included; every year it is placed somewhere among all the other lights.

Epcot offers the most for adults during the Christmas season. The various countries that encompass the World Showcase feature their unique Yule decorations as well as storytellers who recount the holiday traditions from each country. Meet La Befana, the witchlike character who delivers gifts in Italy, St. Nicholas in Germany, Pére Noël in France, Julenissen in Norway. At the American Adventure, learn about Kwanzaa and Hanukkah or Ramadan and Ashura at the Morocco Pavilion. Chinese and Japanese New Years are explored at their respective pavilions.

If you collect Christmas ornaments, you can purchase a keepsake from one of the countries. I always like buying an Advent Calendar at Germany’s shop; these countdown to Christmas calendars were a childhood holiday tradition for my family. Or purchase an edible reminder of a place you have visited or gift for someone; maple syrup or candy from Canada, Maxim de Paris chocolates from France, Italian chocolates, Swedish preserves, English tea.

The Candlelight Processional is a four decade old tradition at Epcot. Held outdoors at the America Gardens Theatre, it features a celebrity reader recounting the Christmas story, along with guest choirs, a 50 piece orchestra, and, of course, a candlelight procession with more than 400 performers. It opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and usually runs until December 30. Celebrities this year included Geena Davis, Neil Patrick Harris, Whoopi Goldberg, Gary Sinise, and Amy Grant.

Epcot celebrates the holidays with an annual Holidays Around the World featuring the traditions of many different countries.

To best appreciate this event, purchase of a dining package at one of the many featured Epcot restaurants provides reserved seating at the reading as well as a special area for viewing the later fireworks, IllumiNations: Reflection of Earth. The reserved seating is first come, first served, so it is a good idea to arrive early and make sure you are in the correct line; usually the reserved seating is on the left side; general admission on the right.

If you don’t purchase one of the meal packages, seating is on a first come, first served basis and people usually start lining up at least 45 minutes before the show. There are 3 shows a night.

Each resort owned by Disney offers unique decorations such as the all chocolate display and live tropical Santa at the Swan Resort, the five story tree and life sized gingerbread house at the Grand Floridian, or the gingerbread carousel at the Beach Club. Even if you are not staying at one of the resorts, they all can be visited by the public. You can use Disney transportation from any of the theme parks to any of the resorts. If driving, free limited time parking passes are available at the gates of the resorts.

During the holiday season, Downtown Disney features the Festival of the Seasons with holiday decorations, displays and entertainment throughout. In case you missed purchasing your holiday keepsake while at one of the parks, holiday gifts are available year round at Disney’s Days of Christmas located there.

No matter what your age, Disney World holds a special kind of magic during the holidays.

Gifts for the traveler

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 29 Nov 2012 14:59:11 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber

vickieonmarco@gmail.com

This time of year, in anticipation of the holidays, I usually write a column recommending gifts for the traveler. This year, I am going to highlight some of those items I like when traveling, as well as mention some popular and new travel items on the market.

For easily traversing the airport, I use a neck strap passport holder with compartments. I fill it with my passport or driver’s license, boarding passes, money, and credit card. Not only are my documents conveniently located, but I have ready access to money if I want to purchase something in the airport. Quickly storing my documents in the holder is especially appreciated when trying to balance purse, carryon, plastic bag with liquids, and shoes and jacket taken off to pass through security.

You never know when you will need an umbrella on your travels; look for one that is sturdy, lightweight, and collapsible.

I find a carryon with dual coasters so much easier to maneuver going up plane aisles. The dual coasters spin which allows me to pull or push my carryon in any direction; guiding it up the aisle sideways is much smoother as it doesn’t tend to catch on seats as I pass. I have not used it, but there is an item called the Walkin’ Bag that is lightweight with swivel coasters that was developed by someone who survived polio. It has a lean-on handle that supports legs and backs. Some models have a built in seat that can also be used as a desk and it comes with wheels that can easily be replaced should they break.

If you don’t have a lot of space to stow away luggage when not traveling, investigate Lipault Luggage. Some of the models with wheels are made of lightweight, durable nylon that folds up for storage.

Worried about luggage becoming lost? There are “smart” luggage tags that have codes or microchips that can help find missing luggage. Check out websites such as supersmarttag.com or reboundtag.com for purchase information.

I’ve written about them before, but organizational bags for packing are wonderful. They help keep items neat and organized and protect against leaks from within or outside of your bag. Many times when I’ve arrived at a destination and my luggage came off the baggage carousel, I’ve found that it was wet, even when we had never encountered any rain in our journey. I like Space Bags that allow me to roll and squeeze out excess air thus saving room. I also like large Zip Lock bags. Travel catalogs such as TravelSmith or Magellan’s offer many types of organizational bags and cubes. Websites such as cocooninnovations.com have bags with grids that hold items in place; they are particularly handy for stowing electronic accessories or personal items.

I’ve also mentioned empty Altoid mint tins. I use them to safely hold smaller items such as SD cards for my camera, camera batteries, my iPod Shuffle, ear buds and spare contact lenses.

If having an unwrinkled shirt is important, there is a new product called the “Shirt Shuffle” that purportedly keeps a shirt neatly pressed. It is a semi rigid case with its own folding board and pads. Business travel is no longer an issue for my husband, so he has not had the opportunity to try out the Shirt Shuffle. And for me, I just try to pack clothing that doesn’t wrinkle easily, roll it, or use tissue paper or plastic bags to keep it neat.

When it becomes time for me to invest in a new laptop case, I am certainly going to buy one of the TSA checkpoint friendly ones. By using one, I hopefully (there is no guarantee) will no longer have to remove my laptop when going through security.

I don’t use a special pillow when I travel, but I often see people with a u-shaped foam or inflatable pillow. A better option might be the Travelrest Pillow, an inflatable oblong pillow which gets rave reviews from those who have used it It provides good support for the head and neck and allows the user to angle his/her body and sleep comfortably.

There are some travelers who wouldn’t be without their noise canceling headsets on a plane. We are not that fussy, but do pack our own earbuds for inflight entertainment along with a 1 to 2 adaptor necessary for the earphone sockets on some planes.

Once at a destination, there are some items I just wouldn’t be without. The first is a good travel umbrella. I have one from Totes that folds up fairly small, yet provides extra large protection and is incredibly sturdy; I have used it for years. When it finally quits on me, I am going to investigate the new supposedly wind proof travel umbrellas. The claim is they won’t turn inside out in gusty wind.

A good flashlight with rechargeable batteries is always included in my suitcase. Although I just use a small, inexpensive one, there has been a lot of publicity lately about Fenix and similar flashlights with a very bright LED light that can even be used defensively as they can temporarily disorient if shined in the eyes of an attacker.

Traveling, especially in Europe, always involves cobblestones and steps. Comfortable shoes are essential. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER/COASTAL BREEZE NEWS

When traveling in Europe, the paper money is a little larger than American dollars. A wallet that is big enough for foreign currency is very convenient. There has been a lot of interest lately in the possibility of “electronic pickpocketing” from credit cards and passports with radio frequency chips (RFID). Although this is not as risky as news reports try to make it, if you or the traveler in your life have an RFID card and are concerned, there are now many wallets and protective sleeves on the market that guard against this. Simply Google the words “RFID wallet” to find some.

Recently, I’ve read some reviews of shoes recommended for traveling. I’ve not used any of them, so I will just mention a few of the more popular. Made of a lightweight, perforated polymer, nativeshoes.com offer shoes and sandals that remind me a bit of some of the nicer styles offered by Crocs. Propet Travel Walkers look like mesh tennis shoes. They come in many colors, have bungee closures that can be replaced with laces, and are flexible enough to roll up for packing. Arcopedia has an update of the ballerina style shoe that offers some arch support and cushioned insoles. They also fold up for travel. I find that whatever walking shoe or sandal is most comfortable for me is the one I pack, while never using white athletic shoes outside of the United States as they scream out, “tourist.”

Finally, if you are a regular reader of this column, you know how much I love my iPad when I travel. I call it my “Swiss army knife of travel” – book, GPS, guide, trip journal, photo backup, communicator. It has become an essential travel item for me and would make a great gift for you or the traveler in your family.

Tuscany’s second city

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 15 Nov 2012 14:16:07 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL
Vickie Kelber
vickieonmarco@gmail.com

Pageantry in the form of costumed parades lead up to the Palio in the Siena.

While Florence is the big city draw in Tuscany, its ancient rival, Siena, is a favorite of ours. Florence has the art; Siena the charm.

Once as great and strong as Florence and fierce adversaries, the Black Death in the 1300’s destroyed a third of the population of Siena and caused irreparable economic harm. In the 1500’s, the final defeat by the Florentines resulted in the cessation of further building. If you are a history buff, that between these two competitors is a fascinating read.

Siena is built on three hills; the clay in these hills contains a pigment which when burned results in the color known as “burnt sienna”….remember that reddish brown crayon from your Crayola set when you were a kid?

We spent a month on a vineyard once and traveled to Siena frequently for shopping, sight seeing, sometimes just for lunch. Recently we had the opportunity to return and revisit our favorite restaurant from years ago. It was still there and still serving good food.

The Cathedral (Duomo) of Siena is a sight to behold. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER/COASTAL BREEZE NEWS

The jewel of Siena is its sloped, red, shell shaped Piazza del Campo, or “il Campo.” If you visit, you will find yourself drawn to it over and over, no matter how short your stay.

Il Campo is ringed by outdoor cafes, some with balconies overlooking the piazza. Towering above is the Torre del Mangia dating from the 14th century and adjacent Palazzo Pubblico, the town hall and civic museum filled with Sienese art. There are 332 steps to the top for a panoramic view of the city. If climbing 332 steps is not on your list of things to do, read on for another view option. Radiating up from il Campo are streets and alleys lined with medieval buildings. The main streets of Via Banchi di Sopra, Via Banchi di Sotto, and via di Citta are the primary shopping venues. Here you find the very popular Tuscan wild boar, cinghale; some of the shops use the heads as decoration.

The Piazzo del Campo is the center of activity in Siena.

The second big draw in Siena is the cathedral with its zebra striped tower. As ornate as its exterior is, the interior is the real treasure with striped columns and an inlaid marble mosaic floor. Sections of the floor are often covered for protection, but there is always something on view. The art includes works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini; the Baptistery has a font by Donatello, Ghiberti, and della Quercia.

The Museo dell’ Operal del Duomo houses art work from the cathedral and while the view from its terrace Panorama dal Facciatone on the Duomo Nuovo is not as dramatic as the Torre del Mangia, it is every bit as enchanting. The Crypt below the Duomo opened to the public in 2003 is resplendent with 13th century frescos. There is a combo ticket available that provides about a ten dollar savings if you want to visit all of these.

Between il Campo and the Cathedral is Palazo Chigi-Saracini, 14th century palace that is now home to a world class music academy; step into the peaceful courtyard where there are frequent and often impromptu concerts.

Santa Maria della Scala, once a hospital, is now a museum and the nearby Pinacoteca Nazionale features Sienese art from the 12th to 17th centuries.

A second frequented religious edifice is the Church of San Domenico. It is rather simple by Italian standards, is dedicated to St. Catherine and includes a reliquary containing her head. Nearby is also the Sanctuary of St. Catherine which has attracted pilgrims since the 1400’s.

The Palazoo Pubblico with its Torre del Mangia adorns the Piazza del Campo.

Siena also has a wine museum and tasting cellar, the Enoteca Italiana housed in the Medici Fortress of Santa Barbara.

Twice a year, in July and August, the Palio di Siena, or simply, il Palio, with origins to the Middle Ages, takes place on il Campo. Siena is divided in 17 districts, or contrade. Each neighborhood is represented by a color and an animal. Ceramic plaques and banners attached to buildings proudly identify each contrade. Il Palio is a boisterous time; the rivalry among contrades unparalleled.

The oldest record of a Palio is from 1283, but it may predate that. The Palio is actually the prize; a hand painted silk banner. There is space for only ten horses, so those representing ten contrade are chosen by draw, although the seven that didn’t compete the prior year are automatically included. The horses are provided by private owners and which horse will run for which contrade is by lottery.

The bareback race is short, only about a minute and a half. Prior to the race, the horses are brought to a chapel for blessing; if “manure” is dropped, it is considered good luck. There are no rules against bribes, ambushing jockeys or even doping. It is not unusual for jockeys to be thrown on the earthen covered stones during the race. Interestingly, the horse considered the loser is the one who comes in second, not the last one. A race within a race is that each contrade has a rival and part of the “game” is to try to get one’s rival to lose.

We once visited during Palio season. While we were unable to obtain tickets for the event itself, we were able to view the parades with their medieval costumes featuring flag throwers leading up to it as well as one of the trial races. Bleachers were set up on the outside of the race course, but il Campo itself was packed with people….“chock-a-block” as the Brits say, and very, very scary.

The popular cinghale, wild boar, is available in many shops in Siena.

The shouting, jeering, singing and even some fighting, was every bit as enthusiastic as during the real race. It was no problem that we missed the actual race as one Italian television station replayed it, over and over, 24 hours straight for days and days after.

Siena is 35 miles south of Florence. There are daily trains, but a better option from Florence is to take a bus; bus travel is faster and the schedule more frequent. No cars are permitted within the historical center, but car parks are located near each entrance to the city.

Quiet moments in Firenze

Mint Design Co. — Fri, 02 Nov 2012 00:00:00 +0000

View of Florence from the cemetery adjacent to San Miniato. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER/COASTAL BREEZE NEWS

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber

vickieonmarco@gmail.com

Firenze, or Florence, Italy is a beautiful city full of impressive art and churches that are works of art. It is a Renaissance city that invites a lot of walking and some of the most uneven cobblestone I have ever traversed.

There is a long list of “must see” items….the Duomo, the Uffizzi, Piazza Signoria, the Pitti Palace, Ponte Vecchio, the San Lorenzo Market, the weeping “angels” surrounding Michaelangelo’s tomb in the church of Santa Croce and his statue of David in the Accademia. Consult any guidebook and you will find the tourist favorites. Because they are favorites, though, they can be very crowded. As one of our local drivers explained, “we have busy season and very busy season.”

If you have the time, try to enjoy some quieter moments away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. Take time to sit back and enjoy the city as a whole.

One of my favorite places for a quieter moment, although still an area popular with visitors, is Piazzale Michelangelo and the nearby 12th century San Miniato al Monte church and cemetery. Piazzale Michelangelo is about a 30-40 minute ride on bus number 12 or 13 from the train station. The walk back down to the city core is shorter. From the area around the Piazzale, there is a magnificent panoramic view of the city. There are also some bars, snack and gelato places and a very tacky bronze replica of the Piazzale’s namesake’s statue of David. If you are there during the height of tourist season, ignore the tour buses which often make a quick stop there and head either down to the road just below the Piazzale for the best view or stop at the terrace restaurant we found tucked away to the left. It was not crowded and the food was surprisingly reasonable and good. And the view, breathtaking.

The serenity of the Boboli Gardens is very inviting.

Do make sure, though, that you visit San Miniato. Legend has it that the saint to whom it is dedicated was decapitated down in the city, picked up his head, crossed the Arno and walked up to this site. Note that if you walk up to San Miniato from the Piazzale, it is the second church you encounter. The first one is much simpler and doesn’t afford the spectacular view. The interior of San Miniato is worth a visit and there are Gregorian chants at either 4:00 or 5:00 PM, depending on the season. Buried in the adjoining cemetery is Colloidi, the author of Pinocchio and a peaceful stroll through it leads to a vista of angels overlooking the city.

If you are up to it, it is an easy walk back down to the city. If you follow the staircase from the west side of the Piazzale, it will take you through a sculpture garden resplendent with roses in May and June and, of course, another view over the city.

The walk down will take you to the Oltrarno section which is discussed below. From there, it is a short walk across one of the bridges to the centro storico or there are bus stops.

Piazza di Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno section of Florence is frequented by both tourists and locals.

A second peaceful and panoramic escape is a trip on bus 7 from a side street adjacent to the church of San Marco to Fiesole. Fiesole was the site of some of the earliest settlements in this area, dating to the 9th or 8th century BC. Early on, it became a favorite summer destination for wealthy Florentines. Its cooler temperature, breezes and views still offer a respite from the city. The ride up to Fiesole affords the opportunity to observe beautiful villas and gardens. The town is small and offers a few restaurants with vistas. There is a Roman theater which hosts performances during the summer and a museum with Etruscan and Roman artifacts.

Walk uphill a few minutes for a terrace with more breathtaking views and a little further to the church of San Francesco and the Franciscan monastery. Above the cloisters, you can observe some of the rooms, or cells, of St. Bernadine of Siena, a 14th century saint. It is a very peaceful and introspective location. There is also an “alpine” way up and back, with switchbacks through a wooded area.

Closer to the city, and also popular with tourists but still a somewhat tranquil option, are the Boboli Gardens of the Pitti Palace. Filled with formal landscaping, fountains, a man-made grotto and sculpture, wandering up through the Gardens leads to yet another great view of the city below. The adjacent Bardini Gardens also offer peace and a panorama and they are less frequented by tourists. Many locals seek out the Bardini for relaxation.

We had pleasant memories of our last visit to the Boboli Gardens, sitting on a terrace high above the city and enjoying gelato. When we revisited it recently, we looked for the “Kaffehaus,” following the signs and even consulting a map to no avail. When I finally asked directions, I was given them but then told that the Kaffehaus had been closed since 2003 for renovations. Yet, it is still listed on all the maps and there are signs for it. I was reminded of some of the charm that is Italy!

The walk up to the Franciscan Monastery in Fiesole.

A quieter alternative for dinner is visiting one of the many good restaurants in the Oltrarno section, across the Arno from the center of the city. Oltrarno, in fact, means “across the Arno”. This is an area that fans out from the Pitti Palace and is still home to many artisans whom you can observe as they ply their crafts. Tree lined Piazza di Santo Spirito with its center fountain offers some restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating. Yes there will be tourists dining here, but also many locals frequent these establishments.

Incidentally, if you have visited Florence before, but not recently, you might be pleasantly surprised to revisit he Duomo. The new mayor of the city has turned the area around and the Duomo into a pedestrian only zone. Unless you visit early in the morning, it is still very crowded with people, but at least there are no more vehicles adding to the congestion.

Florence is a wonderful city to visit and revisit. If you do, try to plan some quieter moments away from the crowds.

Seasons of smoke

Mint Design Co. — Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:25:04 +0000

SPEAKING OF TRAVEL

Vickie Kelber

vickieonmarco@gmail.com

A typical view in Park City, Utah when there is no smoke in the air, taken in September, 2011. PHOTOS BY VICKIE KELBER/COASTAL BREEZE NEWS

Summer and early fall in Park City, Utah were marred by countless days of smoke filling the atmosphere, obscuring the normally bluebird skies and bright foliage. Fortunately, it was all smoke and not too much fire. There were two nearby small fires, one caused possibly by sparks from a truck traveling down the highway and another by someone shooting at metal targets. The west is dry, drier than we in southwest Florida can really imagine, even during our driest months. Tinderbox dry brush is easy prey to a spark, lightening, or inane acts such as shooting at metal targets.

The fires that brought smoke to this town 7,000 feet above sea level came primarily from Washington and Idaho. Much of the northwest area including Colorado, Idaho, Utah, Washington, Oregon, Montana, and parts of California struggled this year with smoky conditions. With record breaking high temperatures and lack of rain, at one point more than 70 large and uncounted small fires ravaged the western states. While the smoke primarily affected northern states west of the Rockies, NASA’s website reported at the end of September that some of the smoke had made its way to the Atlantic Ocean and as far as Greenland. The site explained that the hotter a fire, the higher the smoke can go and, in turn, the farther it travels because of the strong winds found high in the atmosphere.

A website called wildfiretoday.com operated by a former wildland firefighter who now owns a private consulting service and is a recognized expert witness in wildland fire, showed that in September the smoke from the Washington and Idaho fires was present in half of the United States, spreading as far south as Texas and as far east as West Virginia.

In Idaho, lingering heavy smoke cover resulted in warnings for people to stay indoors and wear masks when outside. Friends visiting a relative in Boise reported that their breathing was impaired by the thick smoke pollution.

The fires this year began in May in New Mexico and Arizona. June saw fires in Colorado, Utah and Idaho, followed by Wyoming and Montana, then Idaho and Nevada, and finally Washington, Oregon, and California. Some of the fires such as the Mustang Complex fire in Idaho burned for more than two months. Fortunately for New Mexico and Arizona, a wet rainy season (which they call “monsoon” season) kept later fire to a minimum. North of those states, however, the summer was very dry. An article in USA Today referred to it as “epic dryness”. Many parts of the west are reported to be experiencing “severe” and “extreme” droughts.

In June, smoke from the Colorado fires was reported covering the skies in Minnesota. Friends of ours in Colorado reported that on Fourth of July, smoke cover was so heavy in their neighborhood in Castle Rock that they could not see to the end of their block. Initially suspecting that there was a fire nearby, they found out that it was from fires in Wyoming.

By the end of the 2012, wildfire season, the record set in 2006 for most acres burned will have been broken. The third worst season was last year, 2011. Various sites report that although there are “ups” and “downs”, overall there has been a steady increase in the number of fires and the amount of land burned over the last 40 years and the fire season is getting longer.

A close-up of the hillsides obscured by smoke.

While the final cause of many of the fires is lightning, a number of factors have come together to cause tinderbox conditions. In recent years, snow cover in the west has decreased, spring has arrived earlier resulting in advanced snow melt, and temperatures have been higher. Changes in forestry practices have resulted in denser forests providing more fuel for fires and these practices are being reexamined.

Certainly the west has experienced previous droughts, but what seems to be contributing to the rise of fires is the combination of drought conditions with higher temperatures. The US National Academy of Sciences reported that the interior west is drier than it has been in 500 years. Changes in the jet stream have increased the dry weather in the west. Temperatures are higher and they are reported higher earlier and later in the year.

As more and more people have moved closer to forested and wilderness areas, forestry practices have changed. In the early 1900’s, wildfire fighters began fighting natural fires (known as “fire suppression”) that used to clear out underbrush and keep forest density down. Denser forests mean that when fires do break out, there is more to burn. The current Chief of the US Forest Service has recommended changes in these practices including more prescribed burning, something with which we who live on the edge of the Everglades are familiar. People moving closer to fire zones has also resulted in the increase of fires caused by human factors, including electrical arcing and fallen power lines.

While fire suppression has an effect, major research conducted at the University of Arizona in Tuscan concluded that change in the climate is the major factor in the increase of western fires. They noted that increase in fire frequency is highly correlated to temperature and the onset and speed of seasonal melting of the snowpack.

You can debate climate change all you want. Whether you believe in climate change or not, the reality in the west is that snow pack is down, summers are hotter and lasting longer and one of the prices is the increase in wildfires. These fires affect not just those directly in their path but air quality for people miles and miles away.

Wildfires can affect closures of roads, parks, and other areas frequented by tourists. The USDA Forest Service maintains a website that reports on large fires throughout the United States at http://activefiremaps.fs.fed.us. Individual states maintain similar sites. Most of these sites report just fires, not smokey conditions. Montana is an exception; it reports on wildfire smoke and unhealthy or hazardous air quality due to smoke at http://svc.mt.gov/deq/ smokereport/mostRecentUpdate.aspx. At the end of September, they were reporting poor air quality over most of the state, with very unhealthy and hazardous conditions in a number of specific areas. If you are traveling to an area, try to Google the name of the state, park, or area along with the words “smoke” and “fire” and you should be able to find some type of report. If you are interested in the monitoring of drought conditions throughout the United States, http://droughtmonitor.unl.edu does just that with updates weekly.